Ancient elixir

A TAWNY PORT THAT DATES BACK TO 1882 WAS RELEASED IN JUNE BY GRAHAM’S. THAT WAS THE TIME WHEN THE FIRST MEMBER OF THE SYMINGTON FAMILY, WHICH OWNS THE PORT HOUSE, WENT TO PORTUGAL TO WORK FOR IT. THE SYMINGTONS CONTROL SOME OF THE BEST NAMES IN THE BUSINESS, INCLUDING WARRE’S AND DOW’S. THERE ARE 665 BOTTLES—SPECIAL DECANTERS FROM THE PORTUGUESE GLASSMAKER ATLANTIS—OF THE 132-YEAR-OLD WINE, WHICH IS CALLED NE OUBLIE (NEVER FORGET). THEY COME IN A LEATHER BOX FROM SMYTHSON OF BOND STREET. MORE IMPORTANTLY, THE ANCIENT PORT IS EXQUISITE. I TASTED IT A YEAR AGO AND WAS SPEECHLESS. IT SHOWED ELECTRIFYING RICHNESS AND BRIGHTNESS, WITH A FASCINATING COMBINATION OF TOFFEE, CARAMEL, DRIED FRUIT, FIGS AND BRAZILIAN LIME. SUCH FABULOUS PURENESS AND CLARITY. IT SELLS FOR €5,500 A BOTTLE.

100 POINTS