An­cient elixir

Hong Kong Tatler - - News -

A TAWNY PORT THAT DATES BACK TO 1882 WAS RE­LEASED IN JUNE BY GRA­HAM’S. THAT WAS THE TIME WHEN THE FIRST MEM­BER OF THE SYMING­TON FAM­ILY, WHICH OWNS THE PORT HOUSE, WENT TO POR­TU­GAL TO WORK FOR IT. THE SYMING­TONS CON­TROL SOME OF THE BEST NAMES IN THE BUSINESS, IN­CLUD­ING WARRE’S AND DOW’S. THERE ARE 665 BOT­TLES—SPE­CIAL DE­CANTERS FROM THE POR­TUGUESE GLASS­MAKER AT­LANTIS—OF THE 132-YEAR-OLD WINE, WHICH IS CALLED NE OU­BLIE (NEVER FOR­GET). THEY COME IN A LEATHER BOX FROM SMYTH­SON OF BOND STREET. MORE IM­POR­TANTLY, THE AN­CIENT PORT IS EX­QUIS­ITE. I TASTED IT A YEAR AGO AND WAS SPEECH­LESS. IT SHOWED ELEC­TRI­FY­ING RICH­NESS AND BRIGHT­NESS, WITH A FAS­CI­NAT­ING COM­BI­NA­TION OF TOF­FEE, CARAMEL, DRIED FRUIT, FIGS AND BRAZIL­IAN LIME. SUCH FAB­U­LOUS PURE­NESS AND CLAR­ITY. IT SELLS FOR €5,500 A BOT­TLE.

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