It’s the first time in a couple of seasons that we’re seeing eye make-up trends that are extreme and unconventional. There are the stripes of cobalt at Kenzo, the aquamarine eyeliner at Temperley and the icy washes of muted pastels at Chloé and Nina Ricci. For eyes, apparently anything goes, as long as it’s edgy and wholly unexpected. Even the most neutral of eye shadow shades are, on closer inspection, tonally very subversive— khakis were dusty, plum shades were bruised and violet dulled, as though clouded by an Instagram filter.
Seemingly tired of playing it safe, makeup artists wielded all manner of shadow and eyeliner shades in a bounty of surprising textures. This resulted in haunting halos of burnished bronze at Alberta Ferretti, modern, multi-hued cat-eye flicks at Chanel, and the ever-so-refreshing use of glitter, shimmer and high-shine metallics that added extra dimension to eyelids at Christian Dior (in blue), Altuzarra (in chartreuse) and Vera Wang (in pink). Even eyelashes took a different perspective for the new season. They were clumped up and clotted at Missoni and Prada, fanned out and feathered at Alberta Ferretti and Emporio Armani, intense at Tom Ford and faux and outré at Gucci. GET THE LOOK TAKE YOUR CUE FROM THE CATWALK: EXPERIMENT WITH COLOUR, BUT LIMIT BRIGHT SHADES TO A BLINK-AND-YOU’LLMISS-IT FLASH ACROSS THE UPPER LASH LINE, A SHEER WASH IN AN UNPREDICTABLE HUE OR A COMPLEXION-ENHANCING PLUM- OR BERRY-TONED LINER. EXAGGERATED FALSE LASHES MAY WORK ON THE RUNWAY BUT, AS MAKE-UP ARTIST VAL GARLAND POINTS OUT, “IN THE REAL WORLD, YOU WANT THE PRETTINESS OF MASCARA.” SO AMP UP YOUR LASH LOOK BY LAYERING A COAT OF LENGTHENING MASCARA OVER A VOLUMISING ONE.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: TOM FORD; KENZO; CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ PERFECT LASH MASCARA; GIORGIO ARMANI EYES TO KILL LINER; MAC INDIVIDUAL EYELASHES; SHISEIDO SHIMMERING CREAM EYE COLOUR IN MOSS; CHRISTIAN DIOR 5 COULEURS EYESHADOW PALETTE IN CUIR CANNAGE