New washes and distressing techniques on leather and denim provided a fresh look for the jackets and jeans in the Black Label sportswear collection. Zips and padded knees revealed a military flavour, as did cardigans featuring patches, pockets and epaulettes. Black and olive underlined the army theme. Patterns and textures clashed within the Purple Label part of the show. The 1920s was the influence here, with eveningwear displaying more than a touch of the dandy, such as pocket watches and high- sitting collars in contrasting colours on striped dress shirts. Three- piece suits were decorated with heritage patterns and ties had art deco prints. Fabrics included Black Watch tartan and rich velvet. Casual looks included Italian cashmere trousers. Wearable luxury is a phrase often used to describe Ralph Lauren, and once again the label has achieved this difficult balance.