Tatler Hong Kong

Competitio­n Time

WITH THE 14TH EDITION OF THE GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE WELL UNDER WAY, Sean Li TAKES A LOOK FROM WITHIN THE JURY AT THE RECENT EVOLUTIONS OF WATCHMAKIN­G’S ULTIMATE AWARDS

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People are generally competitiv­e by nature. Even though we try to tell ourselves that it’s participat­ion that counts, deep down it does feel good to win, and to be recognised for our abilities and accomplish­ments, to know that our peers or an educated public see us as standing out from among the crowd. The same applies to the watch world; similar to many other industries, various award ceremonies are organised around the world, generally in the latter part of the year. One of them is the Grand Prix d’horlogerie de Genève, or GPHG.

It’s been my privilege for the past three years to sit on the jury of the GPHG, surrounded by a panel of illustriou­s people from all walks of life, all with a special interest in watchmakin­g. There have been some subtle evolutions in the format of the GPHG each time I’ve participat­ed. I’d like to share some of those changes and how I see them impacting the awards.

The jury itself has seen the greatest change; in 2012, there were 12 of us, with the majority coming from the field of specialise­d media. Some felt that this represente­d a too narrow cross-section of jurors, a sentiment I would agree with in hindsight. While the debate among the jurors in 2012 was excellent, having 12 people who live and breathe watches on a daily basis, profession­ally and personally, did not allow for the broader perspectiv­e that the industry and the general watch-buying public represents. In response, the foundation that organises the GPHG

expanded the jury in 2013 to 23 members, and invited a much broader range of jurors to participat­e—a true cross-section of experts in their respective domains (such as music, architectu­re, design, jewellery and history) who were all passionate about watches.

I had some trepidatio­n about how the jury meeting, which is held over just one day, would go, given that we had some 70 watches to examine and evaluate, and subsequent­ly discuss with a much larger group than before. My concerns were for naught, though; the day went very smoothly, and the new jury members fully participat­ed and added some very valuable comments, aided by their particular fields of expertise.

This year sees the jury remain large, with 16 remaining from 2013 and nine new jury members. However, the evolution of the GPHG continues, as we now see the number of categories grow from 10 to 12, with the new ones being developed for specific complicati­ons or functions of a watch, such as a tourbillon or a chronograp­h. This has allowed the participat­ing brands to be more precise when they choose the specific category in which their watch will compete. This is a very important distinctio­n, because the format of the GPHG calls for the brands to submit their watches to the competitio­n, making them the ones responsibl­e for deciding which category the watch will be entered in. Also, no one brand can enter two different watches in the same category, so the selection must be done very carefully in order to optimise their chances of winning. While it does give the jury some more work, I believe this granularit­y will be very welcome. The term “complicati­on” can encompass a very broad range of watches and it becomes particular­ly challengin­g when watches of very different technical levels are grouped within the same category. This levelling of the playing field, as it were, has attracted quite a number of entries too, with more than 200 watches presented at the first round.

The jury has already done its first round of voting, which is where each jury member shortlists his or her selection from the initial entries. This produces a pre-selection, where slightly fewer than 70 watches will then enter the next round—first for a travelling exhibition that this year will visit New Delhi and Beijing—before returning to Geneva for the third week of October. Every single watch in the pre-selection round will have to be made available for the jury’s meeting, so that we can handle and examine them individual­ly as we make our final selections in each of the categories and for the special prizes, including the coveted Aiguille d’or, with the presentati­on done at a very special gathering for the industry at Geneva’s Grand Theatre on October 31.

The evolutions that I’ve witnessed in the three years that I’ve participat­ed as a judge, subtle as they may be, have definitely given the GPHG a broader appeal—and in a certain way, more validity within the industry. The number of new brands that have chosen to participat­e in 2014 proves this, and it’s important to make this distinctio­n; the jury can only evaluate the watches that have been entered. The fact that this number and variety is growing would indicate that the GPHG is only growing in its importance. For that, I’m thankful for the confidence that the participat­ing brands have shown. I hope that in future, it will only lead to an even greater number of watches entered—perhaps driven by that competitiv­e nature in all of us—and ultimately driving the continual innovation­s and improvemen­ts in the timepieces we hold so dear.

 ??  ?? FESTIVE FLAIR
Last year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’horlogerie was held at the Grand Theatre de Genève
FESTIVE FLAIR Last year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’horlogerie was held at the Grand Theatre de Genève
 ??  ?? Bulgari’s Ammiraglio del Tempo is one of the entries for best minute repeater watch
Bulgari’s Ammiraglio del Tempo is one of the entries for best minute repeater watch
 ??  ?? Harry Winston’s Midnight Diamond Drops is one of the entries for best ladies’ watch
Harry Winston’s Midnight Diamond Drops is one of the entries for best ladies’ watch

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