Tatler Hong Kong

Love, italian style

When Melanie Dunea discovered the Emilia-romagna region, she was already in love, but not with Italy. Oh how the tables have turned

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When Melanie Dunea discovered the Emilia-romagna region, she was already in love, but not with Italy

I’ve been to this region of northern Italy, Emilia-romagna, many times in the past year, a period when I was very much in love with someone. But that ended peaceably, and I’m now returning alone. What is becoming clear to me is that it wasn’t just my personal relationsh­ip that rendered this place so magical. I’m drawn to the food of this place, to the people—to the Emilia-romagna region itself—with an intensity that surprises me. And I love this sumptuous tortellini en brodo.

Now, I’m from the US Midwest, and we Midwestern­ers don’t pepper our talk with words like “love” and “sumptuous” willynilly. It’s not that I don’t appreciate a spritz of glam as much as the next woman. But Midwestern­ers, as a rule, aren’t known for being easily dazzled. That could be one reason why, before my first visit to Emiliaroma­gna—a region sandwiched between Milan and Florence and anchored by Bologna—my relationsh­ip with Italy had been, well, rather undazzling.

I LOVE YOU,” I BLURT OUT AFTER THE PERFECT SPOONFUL OF TORTELLINI EN BRODO PASSES BETWEEN MY LIPS. THE MAN SITTING OPPOSITE ME, THE THIRD-GENERATION OWNER OF TRATTORIA DA AMERIGO DAL 1934 IN SAVIGNO, AN ITALIAN VILLAGE FAMOUS FOR ITS WHITE TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, ISN’T SURE WHAT I MEAN. I POINT MY FORK AT THE DISH; ALBERTO BETTINI SMILES AND NODS.

 ?? Photograph­y and text Melanie Dunea ??
Photograph­y and text Melanie Dunea
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