Fer­gus Hen­der­son

St John Lon­don, England

Hong Kong Tatler - - Features -

Given he is the man who trans­formed the Bri­tish pub­lic’s per­cep­tion of the un­pop­u­lar cuts of meat and pi­o­neered the “nose to tail” way of eat­ing, there is a dis­ap­point­ing lack of of­fal in Fer­gus Hen­der­son’s fridge. Al­though, much like its owner, it is pre­dictably chaotic, a mish­mash of items, some brought home from St John, oth­ers bought at farm­ers mar­kets and lo­cal su­per­mar­kets, and oth­ers un­known and uniden­ti­fi­able (could that be the of­fal?). Malt ex­tract and goose fat rub shoul­ders with ume­boshi plum puree and dashi miso paste. A leg of lamb hogs a lot of space, but there’s still room for Ital­ian mostarda, pre­served lemons, pic­calilli sauce and plenty more. But ac­cord­ing to Hen­der­son, the most im­por­tant item in his fridge is a bot­tle of Fer­net-branca, an Ital­ian liqueur his fa­ther be­lieved had restora­tive pow­ers. “It’s some of the best ad­vice I ever had,” he says, rais­ing a tiny glass to his lips.

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