That’s a wrap

New kids on the DKNY block produce a supercool first collection

One of New York’s coolest design duos—dao-yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of hip streetwear brand Public School—have taken the helm at DKNY following Donna Karan’s departure. Their first collection proves they are intent on taking the brand in a fresh new direction. The duo’s background in menswear design is evident in the masculine spin they put on DKNY’S New York city cool, with broad-shouldered, wide-lapel pinstripe blazers, and a range of deconstructed power-suit looks. The pinstripe theme continues with sheer stripes and vertically ribbed knits, shirt dresses and paper-white tailored pieces. In 1989, when Karan launched her “seven easy pieces,” the focus was on creating timeless classics for the New York woman—ones that Karan referred to as “clothes” rather than “fashion.” Although Chow and Osborne’s collection is less focused on simple staples, there is a definite practical vibe that permeates throughout. The designers admit they’re still learning who the DKNY woman is—but if the first collection is anything to go by, the next-generation DKNY gang looks set to be edgier and more androgynous, with the beating heart of New York City remaining at its core.