On the But­ton

Tra­di­tion and moder­nity meet in a new Van Cleef & Arpels col­lec­tion. Char­lene Co ex­am­ines the her­itage and the phi­los­o­phy be­hind Bouton d’or

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style Jewellery -

he bril­liance of Van Cleef & Arpels is ev­i­dent in how it has man­aged, time and time again, to lift de­signs from its archives decades af­ter they were con­ceived and rein­car­nate them in novel ways that re­main faith­ful to the orig­i­nal mo­tifs. Ni­co­las Bos, the brand’s pres­i­dent and CEO, has of­ten ex­pressed the phi­los­o­phy that while new col­lec­tions should be con­sis­tent with the spirit of the house and its iconic de­signs, they should not sim­ply re­pro­duce them. The new Bouton d’or col­lec­tion is a gleam­ing ex­am­ple of this think­ing.

Bouton d’or is in­spired by one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most em­blem­atic cre­ations from the 1930s, the Pail­lette mo­tif, which also ap­peared in var­i­ous it­er­a­tions in the 1940s and 1950s—from ex­trav­a­gant twostring neck­laces and petals of flo­ral-themed jew­ellery to the tu­tus of its iconic jew­elled bal­leri­nas. More than six decades later, the bead-like mo­tif is re­vis­ited, but this time it’s given a more graphic yet bal­anced ap­pear­ance. The mai­son achieved this in two ways. First, by mak­ing the “beads” look less round, more like a but­ton—thus the name Bouton d’or—with a pastille-like shape and

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