8pm

Hong Kong Tatler - - Features -

5pm

A short taxi ride from In­sti­tuto Mor­eira Salles is Sil­via Cin­tra + Box 4, an el­e­gant white cube space that shows work by young con­tem­po­rary artists such as Cinthia Mar­celle and Chiara Banfi, as well as es­tab­lished fig­ures like Amil­car de Cas­tro and Nel­son Leirner. A short stroll away is Anita Schwartz Art Gallery. The build­ing it­self, a tall con­crete con­fec­tion, is wor­thy of attention along with the works by Brazil­ian and in­ter­na­tional artists within.

6.30pm

Just a few streets away, Praça San­tos Du­mont, a square named af­ter the pioneer of Brazil­ian avi­a­tion, is a favourite gather­ing place—es­pe­cially on Thurs­day and Sun­day evenings. Flocks of re­laxed young car­i­o­cas spill out of sim­ple bars and grills to con­vene over bot­tled beer in the open air.

For din­ner, head to Rubaiyat Rio, the lo­cal out­post of São Paulo’s fa­mous Figueira Rubaiyat res­tau­rant. The beau­ti­ful in­door space is only bet­tered by its amaz­ing out­door din­ing ter­race, which looks across the Jockey Club’s race­course to the hills and moun­tains beyond. Watch the races in the lap of lux­ury over an ex­quis­ite din­ner of fine steak and as­sorted grilled meats. Af­ter­wards, head over to the Ama­zonkitsch bar Palaphita, across from the fin­ish­ing line, for a drink.

11pm

Still up for some fun? For a taste of nightlife beyond the up­scale South Zone (which in­cludes Copaca­bana, Ipanema, Le­blon, Jardim Botânico and Botafogo, among other dis­tricts), head down­town to Lapa, where the streets over­flow with samba and the car­i­oca spirit. Ut­terly chic Casa Mo­mus is a re­cent ad­di­tion, the re­sult of a lov­ing, two-year ren­o­va­tion of an early-1800s build­ing. Try for a ta­ble on the front ter­race to watch the street fun, or set­tle in­side over wine or a zingy caipir­inha. Roll on to Rio Sce­nar­ium, a beau­ti­ful bar-cum-an­tiques em­po­rium, where you can samba till dawn, or look up Circo Voador or Fundição Pro­gresso, two lively Lapa music venues, where you might just catch one of the stars of Brazil­ian music. For a saideira—that’s Por­tuguese for the last drink of the night—wrap up with a tip­ple and a salt­cod ris­sole at Nova Capela.

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