LA­BEL LOVER

OLIVIER THEYSKENS

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style -

In 1997 Olivier Theyskens dropped out of fash­ion school in Brus­sels and launched his epony­mous la­bel. He gained global at­ten­tion the fol­low­ing year when Madonna ar­rived at the Academy Awards dressed in a satin coat dress from his first col­lec­tion. Theyskens was just 21. He joined Rochas in 2002 as cre­ative direc­tor and was crowned in­ter­na­tional de­signer of the year in 2006 by the Coun­cil of Fash­ion De­sign­ers of Amer­ica. In Novem­ber 2006 he joined Nina Ricci as artis­tic direc­tor. Theyskens moved to the United States in 2010 to take the helm of the Amer­i­can con­tem­po­rary la­bel The­ory as artis­tic direc­tor. The Bel­gian wun­derkind left in 2014 and re­turned to Paris, where he spent two years qui­etly work­ing to re­launch his name­sake col­lec­tion for the spring/sum­mer 2017 Paris Fash­ion Week. His first col­lec­tion was, he said, “a re­turn to the fun­da­men­tals.” His mas­tery of tai­lor­ing, drip­ping bias cuts and flow­ing gothic ro­mance was ap­plied to the ev­ery­day—from mi­crochecked, fit­ted trench coats to per­fectly tai­lo­ried ver­sions of Le Smok­ing.

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