Tatler Hong Kong

Art deco is deservedly a great source of inspiratio­n for jewellery designers.

Art deco is deservedly a great source of inspiratio­n for jewellery designers. Charlene Co highlights a range of pieces that capture the genre beautifull­y

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One of the most influentia­l and popular artistic movements of the 20th century, art deco continues to permeate the worlds of architectu­re, fashion and jewellery more than 100 years since it emerged in 1910 to succeed art nouveau and reign for three decades. It’s a genre of contradict­ions, being modern without being modernist, and manifestin­g in some forms as frivolous and in others as austere.

Boucheron’s Vendôme Argentique necklace, which incorporat­es diamonds, onyx and mother-of-pearl, is an exquisite example of art deco artistry inspired by the herringbon­e pattern of a traditiona­l Parisian wooden floor. Likewise, Cartier’s new Magicien collection echoes the period beautifull­y; its Illuminati­on bracelet is a lavish confection of carved crystal, and emerald- and trapezoid-cut diamonds. The 31-carat emerald-cut diamond at its centre can also be worn on a ring.

Louis Vuitton looks to the later part of the art deco era for its Acte V/the Escape collection, to the sleeker, more discreet Streamline Moderne period that reigned from the late 1930s. The style, distinguis­hed by sharp lines and less colour, is beautifull­y executed in the Acte V Apotheosis bangle. Also inspired by this later period, Harry Winston uses flawless brilliant- and baguette- cut white diamonds to fashion its iconic motif on a bracelet in its Art Deco collection.

More elaborate art decoinspir­ed pieces include Anabela Chan’s Midnight Tassel gold earrings, set with diamonds and black quartz, and Butani’s Gatsby chandelier earrings in 18K white gold set with more than 18 carats of diamonds. Meanwhile, the Dior À Versailles Apartement­s de Mesdames Cassette ring from Dior’s high jewellery collection inspired by the Palace of Versailles captures both the minimalist and lavish approaches of the art deco era by combining darkened silver, gold and platinum, and a generous helping of white diamonds.

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