“old clothes command new owners” was the house line for martine rose’s spring/summer 2017 collection, which loosely translated to a focus on vintage clothing as inspiration. Combined in unorthodox ways, the retro pieces were taken out of context, creating an unexpected aesthetic. For example, the humble soccer jersey’s badges were repurposed to denote not affiliations, team colours or territorial divides, but to be appreciated for their decontextualised face value—shade, shape, fabric. Logos were worn inside out and knitwear was paired with sport shirts, rendering garments seasonless. odd combinations of fabrics and textures and the intentional cutting of pieces gave the impression of a previous owner.
a niche name, martine rose has been an unsung hero of British menswear for years. over the past few seasons, the designer has chosen to scrap the show schedule entirely to present in her own way, opting for films and lookbooks rather than expensive, grand-scale presentations (her autumn/winter 2017 show was her first since ss13). the label has just been launched on matchesfashion.com and rose has designed a hip hopinspired capsule collection for outerwear brand napapijri for aw17—it’s oversized, brightly coloured and hella cool.