La­bel lover

Mar­tine rose

Hong Kong Tatler - - Style -

“old clothes com­mand new own­ers” was the house line for mar­tine rose’s spring/sum­mer 2017 col­lec­tion, which loosely trans­lated to a fo­cus on vin­tage cloth­ing as in­spi­ra­tion. Com­bined in un­ortho­dox ways, the retro pieces were taken out of con­text, cre­at­ing an unexpected aes­thetic. For ex­am­ple, the hum­ble soc­cer jer­sey’s badges were re­pur­posed to de­note not af­fil­i­a­tions, team colours or ter­ri­to­rial di­vides, but to be ap­pre­ci­ated for their de­con­tex­tu­alised face value—shade, shape, fab­ric. Lo­gos were worn in­side out and knitwear was paired with sport shirts, ren­der­ing gar­ments sea­son­less. odd com­bi­na­tions of fab­rics and tex­tures and the in­ten­tional cut­ting of pieces gave the im­pres­sion of a pre­vi­ous owner.

a niche name, mar­tine rose has been an un­sung hero of Bri­tish menswear for years. over the past few sea­sons, the de­signer has cho­sen to scrap the show sched­ule en­tirely to present in her own way, opt­ing for films and look­books rather than ex­pen­sive, grand-scale pre­sen­ta­tions (her au­tumn/win­ter 2017 show was her first since ss13). the la­bel has just been launched on match­es­fash­ and rose has de­signed a hip hopin­spired cap­sule col­lec­tion for out­er­wear brand na­pa­pi­jri for aw17—it’s over­sized, brightly coloured and hella cool.

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