Hong Kong Tatler - - Baselworld 2017 Review -

When it’s time to dress to the nines, you need a sharp-look­ing watch. These time­pieces cer­tainly fit


The pure de­sign of the Grande Se­conde of Ja­quet Droz is founded on two dials that form a fig­ure eight, the smaller top dial mark­ing the hours and min­utes, the lower larger dial mark­ing the sec­onds. The black nu­mer­als and train tracks against white space, a lovely jux­ta­po­si­tion of ty­pog­ra­phy, all within the very slen­der rim of the smooth round 43mm case add up to a very hand­some pack­age of per­fect pro­por­tions.


Like its pre­de­ces­sors Co­rum’s new Golden Bridge Rect­an­gle is a small sculp­ture—a work of art as well as a tech­ni­cal tour de force. It owes its aes­thetic to Ital­ian jew­ellery de­signer Dino Modolo, who has used the ar­chi­tec­ture of its move­ment to strik­ing ef­fect. Two 18K gold bridges, which are also the hour mark­ers, line the sig­na­ture baguette move­ment, in­vented by Vin­cent Cal­abrese for Co­rum in 1980. This time the move­ment is en­cased in a 29.5mm x 42mm rose-gold rect­an­gle. Tech­ni­cal en­hance­ments on the 2017 Golden Bridge in­clude a 40-hour power re­serve and wa­ter re­sis­tance to 30 me­tres.


Draw­ing in­spi­ra­tion from its 1940s and ’50s mod­els, Patek Philippe’s new selfwind­ing Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar (Ref 5320) is housed in an el­e­gant 40mm white-gold case with three-tiered lugs. The lac­quered cream dial with lu­mi­nous nu­mer­als and hands has two aper­tures for day and month, with the ana­logue date cir­cling a sub-dial that en­com­passes the moon phase in­di­ca­tor.


There is a playful side to Her­mès, and time­piece cre­ations such as the Arceau Le Temps Sus­pendu are joy­ful ex­am­ples. The mai­son’s new­est Po­etic Com­pli­ca­tion is Slim d’her­mès L’heure Im­pa­tiente, where it re­veals its whim­si­cal per­sona. Her­mès presents a sub-dial that can be set to count down to any time in the next 12 hours, with a gong sound­ing when the cho­sen time is reached. Some five years in de­vel­op­ment, the com­pli­ca­tion is more charm­ing than use­ful, but it’s also very clever. The piece comes with a svelte rose-gold case, and an opa­line sil­vered dial with nu­mer­als that are ex­e­cuted in un­usual and strik­ing ty­pog­ra­phy.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from China

© PressReader. All rights reserved.