Arts and Crafts Street

This bustling enclave also known as Tianzifang is full of local labels and galleries in the twisting backlanes. Despite now being firmly on the tourist map, it retains a fresh, boho air, best enjoyed at one of the many cafés. Avoid rammed-jammed weekends like the plague.

Start at the cnr of Taikang and Sinan Lu /泰康路與思南路交界. On Taikang, face the Bank of China and to the right is Casa Pagoda at #15 / 6466 7521 / casapagoda.com / for funky furny. Cross for their second shop at #136, and a few doors down at #156 is Platane / 6466 2495 / platane.cn / with ace Shanghai design brands in one super-stylish two-level maison. Keep trotting down the road for glam glass art at Liuli China Museum on the left at #25 / 6467 2268 / liulichinamuseum.com, then keep an eye out for Lane 210 / 210里/ on your right. Turn into this small lane to find Harvest Studio / Suite 118 / 6473 4596 / where Miao weavers hand-embroider dresses, totes, runners and even give classes. Retrace your steps to exit the lane, turn right, and the next lane on your right is Lane 210 with a big sign above. Head inside and on your left at #220 is Piling Palang / 5420 2871 / pilingpalang.com / a local brand boasting bold, glamorous chinoiserie ceramics, lacquerware and cloisonne that are perfect for spiffing up the home. A few steps further down on the left you’ll see a small courtyard called The Yard. Working clockwise from your left you’ll find: La Vie / Rm 13 / 6445 3585 / new-shanghai fash from local artist Jenny Ji; Woo Scarf & Shawl / Rm 12 / 6445 7516 / for smart wrap-arounds; and Chez Lu / Rm 4 / 5465 6739 / chezlu.cn / natty silk brocade pouches, slippers and more. In the middle is relaxed alfresco café Kommune / 6466 2416 / kommune.me / that’s also fab for weekend brunch. Sated? Now whip out of the courtyard, turn right back onto Lane 210 and Red Dawn is at #105 / Bldg 3 / 6473 5066 / on the left for Dawn Zhu’s costume jewellery with an old Shang feel. Exit right, and turn left into the teeny courtyard opp. to spy Yuraki at #50 / 6467 7948 / for pretty bolts of silk and elegant Japanese kimonos. Walk to the end, leg it left then right for buzzy lil’ café society Lane 248. Chou-chou Chic is on the right at #47 / 6415 0520 / with adorable gear for tots. At #44 discover Cashmere House (see Adv. Shop.), they’ll custom-make your dream jumper in a rainbow of colours. Tired of the crowds? Shimmy to the end of the lane then turn right into Lane 155, and continue down the side alley to Taikang Terrace / taikangterrace.com, a group of restored factories where you can find nostalgic Chinois-themed stationery and lifestyley tidbits by Hong Kong graphic designer Alan Chan Creations / #106 / alanchancreations.com. Rest tired tootsies at the Sanctuary (see Spas) or grab a brew on the terrace at Belgian taphouse Kaiba / 6418 2252 / kaiba-beerbar.com. Retrace to Lane 155 and turn right for healthy bites + gelato at Origin / #39 / 5465 2119, then follow the path as it zigzags to the right and straightens into Lane 274. Duck into The Living Heritage at #39 / 186 1094 0438 / for sumptuous hand-embroidered textiles and shawls from Kashmir, then take the second left for Song Exquisite at #10 / 5466 1563 / with fine, femme threads married with classic Chinese tailoring – think mandarin collars and silk embroidery. At the intersection with Lane 248 find Urban Tribe at #14 / 5465 1668 / with rustic pottery, handmade silver jewellery and threads. Now how about a welldeserved cleansing ale? Go on, you Shanghai shopper!