Walking in the silent footsteps of ancient Taoists
Mount Qingcheng, about 68 kilometers from Chengdu, capital of Sichuan Province, is a place of high mountains, thick forests and clear waters. Ancients deemed it a portal to selfenlightenment.
Taoism practitioners began living in seclusion at the mountain about 2,000 years ago, creating one of the four holiest Taoist sites in China — the other three being Longhu Mountain in Jiangxi Province, Qiyun Mountain in Anhui Province and Wudang Mountain in Hubei Province.
In 2000, it was listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO.
The ancients believed the mountain to be “one of the most serene places” on Earth. Its verdant, thick forests acted as a natural shield, protecting the mountain from the hustle and bustle of the outside world.
The mountain scenic area comprises a series of peaks in a front range and a back range. The highest peak is Pengzu Peak at about 1,260 meters.
The remote tranquility that must have attracted ancient Taoists has been somewhat broken by the mountain’s popularity as a tourist site, especially in summer. The area is considered a haven of relief from the scorching heat down on the Sichuan Basin.
Although visitors may not hear the siren call that attracted ancient Taoist masters to the mountain, the Taoist culture itself remains the best part of a sightseeing experience.
Legend has it that a master named Ningfengzi, who lived at the mountain, taught the Yellow Emperor how to master the winds and clouds. Later, Ningfengzi came to be worshipped as
the “Old Master of Five Mountains,” or
The Jianfu Palace in the front rage of the scenic area was called the Zhangren Temple when it was first built during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) dedicated to Ningfengzi.
The current Jianfu Palace was rebuilt about 120 years ago. At the entrance of the scenic area, the palace is usually the first stop for visitors. Among the most precious of relics in the palace is a couplet entitled “a unique feature of Mount Qingcheng.” It contains 394 Chinese characters.
Although Ningfengzi was widely known in China, the man who truly put Mount Qingcheng on the map was Zhang Ling, or Zhang Daoling, who is said to have died in AD 154 at the age of 122. He created the “Way of the Celestial Masters,” which was also called “Way of the Five Pecks of Rice.”
Zhang’s legacy is a mix of facts and myths. Taoist scriptures say he arrived at the mountain in AD 143, where he defeated resident demons. Local people were so grateful that they acknowledged him as their master. His brand of Taoism is said to have attracted more than 3,000 disciples.
Today, Qingcheng contains more than 10 Taoist temples. Some date back more than 1,000 years, though others were built in the last 500 years.
The most significant site in the scenic area is Tianshi Cave, or the Cave of the Taoist Master. The cliff-side cave is believed to be the place where Zhang practiced and preached. The original buildings have been long lost, and the current ones were built in late Qing