Shanghai Daily

Old style charm with modern sophistica­tion

- Patsy Yang

Since the days at Taiyuan Villa when the Roosevelt Prime Steakhouse opened its doors in 2007, the restaurant has been synonymous with the city’s top steakhouse­s and gained its loyal diners with its prime firstgrade quality steaks, rare in China.

It’s recently relocated from its original premises to a new venue housed inside the InterConti­nental Shanghai Ruijin, with its main door facing the leafy street of Fuxing Road M.

The new home shares a somewhat similar latter-day charm. Roosevelt’s new address simply complement­s the understate­d, noble DNA of the steakhouse, as the InterConti­nental Shanghai Ruijin was formerly the State Guest House of Shanghai and a landmark in China’s modern history. The secluded space within its soaring walls has welcomed several important figures and dignitarie­s through the years.

The large 200-seat dining space serves as the hotel’s day-time restaurant and transform to the Roosevelt in the late afternoons, with the space divided into public dining area, private rooms and street-front terrace, giving a timeless feel.

Born out of an enduring friendship between two families that has transcende­d three generation­s, Chen Jikun partnered Franklin D. Roosevelt III, grandson of the late president of the United States, to establish this steakhouse in 2007 and share their passion for gourmet food.

Shanghai is never short of new wave culinary reinventio­ns but one might feel like a classic, comfortabl­e steak dinner every so often, and that’s what Roosevelt is all about.

The new menu is straight-forward, with its prime focus combined with top ingredient­s, and continues to offer alltime favorites, complement­ed by newly created dishes. Surely the finest cuts of beef are the stars here yet before tasting some of the best prime steaks in town, one should try its signature French onion soup or lobster bisque with black truffle foam. Nothing pretentiou­s, the tastes of both soups were simply authentic and hit the right notes. Traditiona­l Caesar salad and tuna tartar were prepared tableside so one can clearly understand all the ingredient­s mixed on the plate.

The iconic steaks are certified Black Angus — natural and top prime grade. All the USDA Prime Steaks are wet-aged 21 to 28 days from their Midwest cutting houses. All of them are roasted in the 800-degree Celsius custom stone oven. Ribeye Black Angus cab (460 gram), as the chef recommende­d, was a great choice for two to share.

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 ??  ?? Tuna tartar is prepared tableside.
Tuna tartar is prepared tableside.

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