Shanghai Daily

Japanese cuisine in a chic modern environmen­t

- Patsy Yang

Tucked inside the HKRI Taikoo Hui sits UMI Restaurant and Terrace. Since opening earlier this year, it’s been serving high-end, inventive, chef-driven Japanese cuisine in a chic and modern environmen­t.

The executive chef behind all the creations is Bjoern Alexander, who trained at The French Laundry, a threestar Michelin restaurant in California. Alexander worked under the acclaimed Tim Raue in his native Germany and ultimately earned his own star at Gabriele in Berlin.

He went on to train in the illustriou­s Jimbocho Den in Tokyo and in the kitchens of small traditiona­l ramen and tempura restaurant­s, where he developed his cooking philosophy and understand­ing under true culinary masters.

With his experience and influence from around the world, he continued to give “creative and exotic” creations at UMI since his arrival in the city at the end of 2017.

An urban chic atmosphere created by Red Design, coupled with a creative menu, has drawn in foodies, yet the chef is continuous­ly making efforts to reach a bigger and diverse group of diners. A terrace that sports a thrilling city view is yet another draw of the enticing downtown space.

It is recommende­d you start the dining experience on the outdoor terrace or at the bar, which is decorated in orange marble with a wooden installati­on behind. The cocktail menu is equally creative, marrying Western and Japanese influences. Why not begin a relaxed evening with a Japanese-inspired cocktail as an aperitif?

The dinner menu is for those craving Japanese food with a forward-thinking concept. UMI means “ocean” in Japanese, a theme reflected in premium-quality raw materials painstakin­gly sourced by Executive Chef Alexander.

The omakase experience offers a different perspectiv­e from other premium Japanese outlets in town because Alexander crafts fascinatin­g and colorful dishes in his own way. Each dish blends the fundamenta­ls of Japanese cooking with the flavors and textures of his German roots.

Along the eight-course omakase, I was impressed by the miso-marinated cubes of foie gras garnished with pickled rose petals and the creamy steamed egg filled with snow crab, truffle, uni and lime cream. The tender abalone with German spatzle noodles in a ramen-inspired pork and pepper broth also reflects how the chef pushes the boundaries of traditions. Meanwhile, a curated menu of more than 40 sakes, from crisp and clean to complex and aromatic, brings out the deep, hidden deliciousn­ess of each course.

The dinner here is more high-end while the lunch service largely caters to nearby offices, providing quick options from bento boxes to affordable lunch sets.

 ??  ?? Seafood Platter — Ti Gong
Seafood Platter — Ti Gong
 ??  ?? Black Sesame
Black Sesame

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