Shanghai Daily

Torishou offers an exploratio­n in Japanese cuisine

- Patsy Yang

TORISHOU, a beloved yakitori spot on Fuxing Road W., has moved to another location on Changle Road, but with a much more discreet entrance.

Though the space is equally compact, Torishou doesn’t compromise on its high-quality offerings and still strives to keep prices affordable.

True to the Japanese yakitori spirit, the first floor bar counter faces the open kitchen, offering customers a close-up view of the chef’s meticulous preparatio­n, while the second and third levels accommodat­e groups of diners.

A visit to the 34-seat Torishou restaurant is a culinary exploratio­n of an entire chicken, from neck to tail. Grilled chicken parts are still the restaurant’s most popular dish. And, if you order late, some rare plates are generally out of stock. But, even if you miss out on the rare orders, choices are plentiful: chicken tights, tenderloin­s, neck meat, gizzards, liver, heart, chicken wings, white meat and meatballs are all recommende­d. The rare parts skewered on bamboo sticks, including chicken heart arota, diaphragm and chicken eggs, are highly recommende­d.

Different parts of a grilled chicken might be confusing for a customer but, all well done, each part reveals a delightful texture and flavor.

The small dishes here are equally satisfying. Each plate boasts mouth-watering simplicity and is perfect for pairing with beer and sake.

Owner William Zhang has added a few new dishes to the menu.

I loved the Karasumi–dried roe pouches of the mullet, eaten with ternip slice; liver of anglerfish — ultra rich and delicate; and fried chicken skin — pure comfortabl­e bites enjoyed with beer.

They also offer a chicken soup hotpot — ideal for small groups in the cold season. The simple seasoning brings the natural flavors of the chicken soup to blossom.

You also have different vegetables cooked in the soup that are healthy and satisfying. The hotpot offering is limited every evening.

Other main courses include chicken porridge, chicken dumplings and oyakodon. Torishou is an ideal place for high-quality Japanese flavors, and all at a reasonable price.

Bookings are essential.

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 ??  ?? Above: Grilled chicken parts are the restaurant’s most popular dish.
Above: Grilled chicken parts are the restaurant’s most popular dish.

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