Shanghai Daily

Old-style city charm hidden inside a cozy bistro

- Patsy Yang

OLD Shanghai charm is well concealed inside a not-so-pretty building on Jiangsu Road. You could easily miss Yun Cui Fang due to its understate­d facade but first impression­s are often deceptive.

Walk upstairs to the second floor and you’ll find yourself inside a cozy living room kind of space. It gives a feeling that you are at a friend’s house from the 1920s with many stories to tell.

Every detail confirms the owner’s love of the city and its history, from the warm wooden floors and Art Deco chairs to the period furniture and ambient lighting.

The dining space is smartly divided into different areas, which are cozy and intimate like you are seated comfortabl­y at home. Each corner table or cabinet is decorated with beautiful porcelains, flowers, collectibl­e knick-knacks, thus a pleasant environmen­t is well formed before a meal starts.

For a weekend, it’s recommende­d to book in advance because it is popular with the locals.

The food isn’t sophistica­ted or creative but it is decent and qualified. The prime focus is on Shanghai- and Hangzhoust­yle snacks and small plates, such as Shanghai dumplings and Hangzhou pian’er chuan noodle. Other tasty dishes include drunken razor clam, drunken chicken, liang pi (cold skin noodle) and Shanghaine­se braised pork chop.

Pian’er chuan noodle gained popularity in Shanghai and surroundin­g areas because it is cooked in a southern way.

The restaurant uses lean pork, bamboo shoots and preserved vegetables as basic materials.

The broth is usually heavier, brewed with pork meat, but the version at Yun Cui Fang is more delicate, not overly oily and topped with fresh river shrimps. It comes with a delicious soft-boiled egg on the side.

Drunken razor clam is a must order here. People from Shanghai and Zhejiang

Province love Shaoxing wine and food marinated in it, served cold. High-quality, big-size razor clam is served and you just can’t help reaching out for more.

Order a few plates for sharing along with a pot of green tea and you can easily while away long hours here. And when the weather allows, why not take a table on the rooftop terrace and enjoy the view.

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 ??  ?? noodle here uses lean pork, bamboo shoots and preserved vegetables as basic materials.
noodle here uses lean pork, bamboo shoots and preserved vegetables as basic materials.

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