The pillar that stands witness to Songjiang’s rich history
The Tang Dynasty (618–907) Dharani Sutra Pillar (Tang Jingzhuang) is located on a quiet corner inside Zhongshan Elementary School at 43 West Siju Alley, Zhongshan Road E., Songjiang.
This pillar, declared a cultural heritage monument in 1988, is Shanghai’s oldest above-ground historical artifact, as well as the tallest and most complete sutra pillar from the Tang period. It represents the splendor of the dynasty and the rich history of Songjiang.
The story of the Jingzhuang, dating back to 859, is a fascinating blend of history, culture and legends.
The local chorography in the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279) reveals that the pillar was situated about 150 steps southwest of the Huating (today’s Songjiang) County government office in a busy thoroughfare, reflecting its state of importance.
But why was this monumental pillar built? Inscriptions on its lower segment reveal a poignant tale. Its creation was the result of Jiang Fu and Shen Zhizhen’s spiritual quest to relieve the suffering of their late mother and deceased younger brother. They sought solace and liberation from the afflictions of their son, who was struggling with illness and misfortune.
The Jingzhuang wasn’t just a memorial; it held a deeper spiritual significance. In Buddhist belief, reciting the Dharani Sutra inscribed on it, or simply circumambulating the pillar, was thought to bring blessings, avert disasters and aid the souls of the departed.
Crafted from large bluestone, this impressive structure soars to a height of 9.3 meters and is intricately assembled from 21 stone-carved levels. Over the centuries, its location at a busy intersection has exposed it to severe weathering, eroding its oncedetailed features.
The restoration of this ancient pillar revealed more than just the need for preservation. As conservators cleared away the old foundation and accumulated layers, they uncovered significant archaeological finds.
Just a few meters to the west of the pillar and half a meter beneath the ground, they discovered a stonepaved road surface dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) or earlier, complete with an underlying drainage system.
Below the 1.6-meter mark of the pillar, they found a brick-paved surface, uniquely octagonal in shape and spanning a diameter of 6 meters, set at a specific angle. These discoveries provided crucial information for the accurate restoration of the pillar’s base.
The archaeological work unearthed cultural layers and artifacts from the Tang Dynasty, offering invaluable insights into the history of Huating County during that era.
Entwined with the Jingzhuang is a captivating legend. Older generations of Songjiang referred to it as the “Town Tower” or “Suppressing Stone,” believed to be pressing down on a black fish spirit.
According to the legend, this spirit, which assumed human form, mysteriously replaced the dishonest county magistrate Wang Mingyou during the Ming Dynasty. His wife, detecting a fishy odor and suspicious behavior, discovered his true form as a large black fish. In a dramatic turn, she sought the help of Zhang Tianshi, a renowned Taoist priest.
Zhang captured the spirit, which pleaded for mercy, claiming it had only consumed the corrupt magistrate and had since committed no evil. Sympathizing locals also interceded, citing the spirit’s just act of eliminating corruption.
Zhang agreed to spare the spirit but vowed to keep it confined under the pillar until his return — a return that never happened.
It’s said that even now, if one listens closely to the pillar in the rain, the sounds of splashing water can be heard — the eternal restlessness of the black fish spirit, still waiting for liberation.
This remarkable pillar, steeped in history and myth, remains a silent witness to the ebb and flow of time, encapsulating the spiritual aspirations, architectural prowess and rich tapestry of folklore.