What lies beneath
To get the best out of foundation, users must understand what a good base for its use requires. Here are six reasons it might look cakey and flaky, and how to fix it
Nowadays, foundation is still popular but not as essential as it once was. While most make-up users still own foundation, there’s less of an obligation to wear corrective make-up to work, social outings, or even for appearances on social media.
This has propelled a movement that empowers people to feel good in their own skin and embrace imperfections instead of hiding them under thick layers of foundation.
While that doesn’t mean the days of using foundation are numbered, to get the best out of foundation, users must understand what a good base for its use requires.
One of the most common problems people experience when applying foundation is how to keep it from looking cakey and flaky.
While it’s easy to blame the formula of your foundation for this, the problem often lies in the condition of the skin.
So before discarding your favourite foundation, make sure to check if any of the following could be the real reason your make-up looks cakey.
Not prepping your skin
Before the actual make-up phase begins, it’s essential to prepare your skin with the right products and formulas so the foundation adheres properly to it.
“If the skin surface is dehydrated, textured, [or simply] not at its best, this can change how make-up lies on the skin,” says make-up artist and global pro lead artist for Smashbox Lori Taylor Davis.
“That’s why skin prep is the key to ensuring that your foundation has a skin-like finish and never looks cakey.”
What your skincare routine looks like will depend on your specific needs and skin type, but washing your face every day, hydrating and moisturising, conducting proper exfoliation, and protecting it from UV radiation are all essential.
In terms of prepping right before
applying make-up, a moisturiser and a primer should always be used. These products can help build a smooth, bouncy surface that’s ready to greet your foundation.
Skipping on primer
While you may think adding even more product underneath your foundation can create the cakey effect, a primer can work wonders and play a significant role in how your make-up looks.
Just as you use a paint primer on your walls or furniture before going for the actual paint, a make-up primer will help even out your skin’s texture by creating a smooth surface that can hold on to your foundation so it lasts throughout the day.
Not prioritising exfoliation
On top of keeping your skin moisturised and healthy, exfoliating your skin is vital to avoid a cakey finish. When dead cells build up on the skin’s surface, they prevent your newest, most healthy and plump skin from showing through, which can lead to make-up looking dull and opaque.
When you exfoliate – either with chemical exfoliators such as AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, or mechanical exfoliators like peeling pads or gentle scrubs – you help smooth out your skin’s surface by sloughing off those dry, dead cells that have been sitting on top of it, revealing a more even texture and a better canvas for your foundation to cling to.
Using the wrong formula
Once your skin condition is under control, it’s essential to figure out what kind of formulation will work well with your skin so it doesn’t cake up.
For those with oily skin, oil-free, non-comedogenic (pore-blocking) formulas may be a better fit, while dry skin will benefit from hydrating foundations featuring ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or tocopherol.
Suppose you struggle with skin sensitivity or inflammatory conditions such as acne, rosacea or dermatitis. In that case, experts recommend mineral or powder foundations, as well as hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic formulas designed without oils, fragrances, or phthalates.
Additionally, a foundation with ingredients like squalane and sodium hyaluronate can help reduce redness and irritation.
When in doubt, keep in mind that most people will do well with a sheer, liquid formula that emulates skin’s natural texture.
“A lightweight, liquid foundation will be less likely to cake over a heavy coverage stick or powder, especially if you’re a beauty novice,” make-up artist Mary Irwin suggests.
Skin prep is the key to ensuring that your foundation has a skinlike finish and never looks cakey
LORI TAYLOR DAVIS, MAKE-UP ARTIST
Dab a small amount of concealer instead of piling on foundation, so you prevent caking
MARY IRWIN, MAKE-UP ARTIST
Using too much product
According to experts, this is the most common cause of cakey foundation. When you apply too much product you risk overlaying it, making your skin look patchy, textured and opaque.
To avoid this, start with only a few drops on the centre of your face – where redness and hyperpigmentation usually appear the most – and build up coverage as desired.
Irwin explains that to fine-tune specific areas of concern, it’s better to “dab a small amount of concealer instead of piling on foundation, so you prevent caking”.
Not setting your make-up
As important as it is to prep your skin and apply your foundation correctly, what you do once your make-up is ready is just as crucial for naturallooking results.
If your preferred setting form is a loose powder, be very selective about where you apply it. Dip your brush in the jar, get rid of excess powder by shaking or lightly tapping it, then gently apply the powder on oily or texturised areas first – such as your T-zone and the skin surrounding your eyes.
If your skin is on the dryer side of the spectrum, a setting spray may be a better option, as it will ensure your make-up stays put throughout the day, preventing it from blotching and spreading, while hydrating your skin.