Tatler Hong Kong

On Reserve

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If the quality of the 2010 Brunellos is any indication, the impending release of the Riservas will have Brunello lovers on the edge of their seats. Compared with the regular bottlings, the Riservas are more structured and tannic; prices are bound to spike when they are released into the market next year. James Suckling tasted about 70 this year in Tuscany. Here are his top five—all perfect scores

casanova di neri Brunello di Montalcino cerretalto Very tannic and powerful, with loads of currants, spices and hints of wood. So much stone and mineral character, as well as violets. Fullbodied, tight and structured. Massively dense, yet agile and bright. Goes on for minutes. Needs at least three or four years to soften. Try it in 2020.

100 points

ciacci Piccolomin­i d’aragona Brunello di Montalcino vigna di Pianrosso santa caterina d’oro Aromas of plums, flowers, mushrooms and violets. Full-bodied, with firm and silky tannins underneath the exquisite fruit. Beautiful balance and a brilliantl­y long finish that goes on for minutes. Drink or hold.

100 points

Assunto Brunello di Montalcino Beautiful aromas and flavours of earth, berries, mushrooms and leaves. Full-bodied, plus a crazy centre palate of fruit with chocolate-covered cherries and hints of oak. Fantastic depth and tannin structure. From 30-year-old vines that yield tiny grapes— and with 40 months in barrel—this is wine off the charts. Give it two or three years in bottle.

100 points

san Filippo Brunello di Montalcino le lucére Superb concentrat­ion and depth on this triumphant young Brunello. Full-bodied, chewy yet polished tannins, and mineral, oyster shell and blueberry flavours. Goes on for minutes. Leave it until 2020.

100 points

renieri Brunello di Montalcino Breathtaki­ng young Brunello with precision and complexity. Shows violets, blackberri­es, bramble berries, tea leaves and minerals, as well as undertones of stone. Full-bodied with a compressed palate and firm, velvety tannins. Powerful and long—truly fantastic. Better in 2018.

100 points

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