Tatler Hong Kong

Return of the Rheingau

The 2015 vintage looks excellent for German riesling, particular­ly dry ones from leading single vineyards in Rheingau. It could be the vintage that brings the region, once the best for German riesling, back into the limelight, says Stuart Pigott, contribu

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august Kesseler rüdesheim berg Schlossber­g gg This is one of the finest 2015 Rheingau GGS. It’s the purity and finesse rather than the power that take your breath away. Aromas of mint, lemon balm and Thai basil are striking. Although this is a seriously concentrat­ed wine, it tastes almost weightless and has a diamond-like brightness. 95 points

Prinz hallgarten Schönhell gg The Amalfi lemon aroma of this wine leaps out of the glass at you and there’s also a delicately floral side. This concentrat­ed dry riesling tastes both succulent and brilliant, the acidity making the complex citrus flavours dance on the palate right through the very long, vibrant finish. Already stunning, has excellent ageing potential. 95 points

Schloss Johannisbe­rg gg Bottled only days before the tasting, but already a stunning nose of perfectly ripe yellow peach as well as many subtle floral notes (camomile, honeysuckl­e). On the palate, it is as elegant as it is concentrat­ed, but only just beginning to show what it’s made of. The extremely long and subtle finish demands full attention. Should age for decades. 95 points

franz Künstler hochheim hölle gg Although it is still very closed and the nose is quite yeasty, this is a wide-screen dry riesling with huge concentrat­ion that’s also blessed with an uplifting freshness that gives the finish a dazzling clarity. It definitely needs a year or two to reach its youthful best, but it possesses enormous ageing potential. 94 points

Josef leitz rüdesheime­r berg Kaiserstei­nfels gg A mountain wine with wild herb aromas and high-altitude freshness that make it stand out in a strong field. Only mid-weight, but enormous vitality and tension, with a very crisp lemonminer­al finish that is seriously long. 94 points

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