Ahead of the Curves
Cartier’s legendary Tank, with its iconic eye-catching design, remains as current today as it was when introduced a century ago. Brian Adams discovers what makes this watch truly timeless
Louis Cartier was well-versed in the classic style of art nouveau and deliberately distanced himself from the movement, applying his geometric lines and abstract forms to pioneering the everlasting grace of art deco. Cartier’s original 1917 Tank timepiece, genderless in its appearance, broke from the elaborate curves of the early 20th century. Cartier is said to have drawn inspiration from the top view of a tank, modelling the brancards after the treads of the war machine and the case after its cockpit. The Tank represents the brand’s boldness, as it veered from its usual, more delicate and refined stylings to pursue a more determined, “off square, near rectangular” case shape. Since then, this design has bridged the changing styles of ensuing eras with three distinct models—the Tank Cintrée, the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank Américaine.
To celebrate its 100th year, Cartier releases a transparent version of its Tank Cintrée, which reveals a skeleton movement that follows the curves of the case. Its transparent design preserves only the bare essentials: the hands, the chemin de fer and the overlapping gears in the background, all contained within the distinctive curve of the Tank Cintrée.
The new Tank Louis Cartier is offered with two fresh faces and is powered by the 8971 MC mechanical movement with manual winding. The women’s version comes in pink or white gold, with an option for a diamond-set version.
The 2017 Tank Américaine, meanwhile, embodies the spirit of the original Tank in its contemporary, understated aesthetic. Showcasing clean lines and a strong presence on the wrist, the eternally elegant model makes an utterly modern statement by presenting steel as a precious material.
As the story of the Tank continues, we bear witness to the seismic shift within Cartier, where its legacy is no longer just having been the jeweller of monarchs, but also a revolutionary watchmaker that doesn’t concede to limitations.