Pride of Lebanon
The son of a wood merchant, he launched his eponymous fashion label at just 18 years of age amid the fear and chaos of war-torn Beirut. Now Elie Saab is the king of Middle Eastern couture. He talks to Jakki Phillips about the road to success and the impor
Designer Elie Saab, who endured the fear and chaos of war-torn Beirut and emerged as the king of Middle Eastern couture, discusses success and philanthropy
I’m starting to get the distinct impression that everyone in Beirut has met Elie Saab apart from me. My interview with the Lebanese fashion designer was delayed three days ago, so I’ve been killing time exploring the city and meeting an interesting assortment of characters along the way. Strangely, they all claim to know Saab. The group of artists at a gallery opening, the bespectacled architect in a backstreet bookstore, the strikingly beautiful jewellery boutique owner and even my hotel’s chef—they all talk of Saab with reverence yet familiarity, like a favourite uncle. Switching smoothly between English, Arabic and French—the three languages spoken by many of the population—they tell me he’s a great man, humble, inspirational and a symbol of hope for their country. They also ask me to pass on their regards.
It seems a little unusual that a worldfamous couturier renowned for show-stopping gowns that have dominated red carpets from Hollywood to Cannes and adorned the famous frames of royalty, the Arab A-list and movie stars, should be on such friendly terms with almost every Beiruti I meet. I mean, I know Lebanon is small—the country, which shares borders with Syria and Israel, is a similar size to Wales—but Beirut is starting to feel like a big village. Forget six degrees of separation, here there appears to be only one.
My new buddies even claim to have hung out at Saab’s home. The designer’s house parties are the talk of Beirut, not just because of the lavish spreads he lays on but also his surprisingly relaxed open-door policy. One local PR woman tells me, “If a famous fashion designer threw a party in London, Paris or New York, you would need to jump through flaming hoops to get an invite. There would be strict security and an even stricter guest list. Elie’s parties are super chilled. He just leaves his door open. It’s fine to bring friends. There’s never any trouble because this is Elie Saab and we are Lebanese. We respect him. He makes Lebanon proud.”
The party venue in question is a beautifully restored early 20th-century traditional Lebanese house in the buzzing, bohemian Gemmayze district. It’s one of the oldest buildings in the neighbourhood, as many were destroyed during the civil war that raged between 1975 and 1990. The restoration was a collaboration between Saab and Venezuelan-born, Beirut-based architect and interior designer Chakib Richani.
Although bright, white and minimalist in concept, with high ceilings and ivory walls, homely touches come from lamps, antique tableware and bowls of fresh flowers. Sunlight floods through tall Gothic arched windows beyond which is a walled garden landscaped around an 18th-century stone fountain. Saab shares this grand residence with his wife of more than 25 years, Claudine, the daughter of one of his early clients. The couple has three grown-up sons: Celio, Elie Junior and Michel.
When I arrive for the interview, Saab is reclining in a chair. Although the designer of lavish, whimsical, fairytale wedding gowns and red-carpet dazzlers, his personal style is, like Saab himself, rather understated. He’s wearing a black T-shirt and jeans, his saltand-pepper hair cropped short. He looks tired. “Sorry—i was filming Project Runway last night and I didn’t get home until very late.”
As the king of Middle Eastern fashion and head of his eponymous global fashion empire, Saab was the obvious choice to lead the judging panel for Project Runway Middle East, the Arabic-version of the American reality TV competition. The show, which invites up-and-coming designers to battle it out for a chance to launch their own fashion house, is also co-produced by the usually low-key Saab. “I try to stay out of the spotlight,” he says, “but sometimes there is a good reason to step into it, like promoting Lebanon and helping young fashion designers from the region follow their hearts and find success for themselves and their own countries. This is very important to me.”
If anyone can relate to the struggles of young fashion designers today it’s Saab, a true visionary who single-handedly pioneered the fashion industry in Lebanon. Born in 1964, he grew up in
“SUCCESS MEANS NOTHING IF IT IS JUST ABOUT MONEY. IT’S ABOUT REMEMBERING WHERE YOU CAME FROM AND OFFERING YOUR HAND TO THE NEXT GENERATION”
Beirut, the oldest son of a wood merchant. Back then there was no fashion industry in Lebanon. “There were dressmakers and tailors but no actual designers,” he recalls.
Saab started sketching ideas for garments when he was only nine. He remembers cutting patterns out of newspapers, then using material from his mother’s discarded garments to make clothes. Initially Saab only created outfits for his sister to model, but over time he started selling his creations to women in the neighbourhood. In 1982, sevens years into the civil war, 18-year-old Saab launched his couture atelier and eponymous label. Despite the turmoil around him, the tenacious teen managed to slowly build a loyal clientele of wealthy society ladies who were drawn to his flattering feminine silhouettes, intricate embroidery, artful beading and his love of lace, pearls, crystals and silk thread.
In the decades that followed, Saab grew to be revered as a fashion powerhouse in the Middle East, but his global breakthrough didn’t come until 2002. One of his creations—a lavish burgundy gown with a revealing sheer floral bodice—hit the headlines along with its owner, Halle Berry, when she became the first black woman to win a Best Actress Oscar, for her performance in Monster’s Ball. His designs have been red-carpet favourites ever since, worn by Beyoncé, Angelina Jolie and Scarlett Johansson among many.
Success snowballed and in 2003 he created his first line of wedding dresses, Elie by Elie Saab, and in 2006 he became the first Middle Eastern brand to be accepted to join the French governing body of couture, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Today, the designer is at the pinnacle of his career. As well as the headquarters in Beirut, where all the couture gowns are produced, he has boutiques in Paris, London, New York, Geneva, Dubai, Qatar and Courchevel, and his ready-to-wear collections are stocked by more than 200 stores worldwide. While couture remains at the heart of the brand, Elie Saab’s ready-towear collection, plus perfume, eyewear and accessories ranges, have opened the brand up to a new, younger audience. When reflecting on his success, Saab is philosophical. “Success means nothing if it is just about money. It’s about remembering where you came from and offering your hand to the next generation.” As well as helping to raise the profile of Middle Eastern fashion through Project Runway, Saab also supports a fashion degree at the Lebanese American University. Students receive mentoring from Saab and tour his atelier in Beirut, and top students are offered internships. “This is my priority now,” he says. “Lebanese people have been through so much. We have suffered for so long. Young people need a symbol of hope. I want to show them that with hard work, vision and determination they can achieve their dreams.” After the interview we take a photo together and his assistant calls a taxi to take me to the airport. “It’s a shame you’re leaving tonight,” he says. “I was going to invite you to my party tomorrow. Next time. My door is always open.”