Evolutionary Theory
Theory co-founder Andrew Rosen discusses the changing landscape of American fashion
As the co-founder and CEO of New York-based contemporary fashion label Theory, Andrew Rosen is a serious force in retail and manufacturing. He also consults with numerous labels, including Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone, and Helmut Lang. He talks to Justine Lee about the changing landscape of American fashion
hen you co-founded Theory in 1997, what was its mission and how has it changed? It was a different time back then. It was the beginning of cellular phones and the wide use of the internet. And the office was no longer a destination; it was going to be wherever you were, and I wanted to make clothes that had the versatility and the flexibility for people who led these on-the-go type of lives. It’s still very relevant today. I started the company based on the philosophy that all our fabrics would be combined with Lycra. It’s important for a new company to really take a stand for something, and you have to have something that’s a little different that sets you apart from the rest, and that was mine.
How has the market evolved in the two decades since Theory’s genesis? The speed and complexity of the industry has changed dramatically, and it’s no different from other industries. It was complicated to begin with but there’s a lot more to it now. The world is a single marketplace and there are no longer local markets. You have to see the market as a whole and communicate with customers directly. Understanding the digital landscape is crucial and it’s a new way of doing business as a whole. I have to work a lot harder today to keep up with what’s happening, and the focus is now entirely on the consumer. We have to change our focus and realise that the consumer is the most important part.
Tell us about your team at Theory. In order to be successful, you have to build a company in which the people who work for you are inspired by the work that they do. They need to be engaged and fully inspired, and I try to create an environment that is more inclusive. I feel like if I can get people excited inside the company, I have a much better chance of engaging people outside the business.
Is that how Theory 2.0 started? Yes. Theory 2.0 is an incubator initiative that’s spearheaded by groups of younger staff in various departments. I realised I was doing a lot of work with young people outside the company through mentorships and consulting, and I wanted to do the same thing inside Theory. It’s been a really rewarding experience, and a lot of new projects internally have stemmed from giving them a voice—the sustainability initiative, the good wool programme, the women’s leadership “Be Heard” programme and also Theory 2.0, which is a super well-edited capsule collection of wardrobe essentials for the modern man and woman with an emphasis on sustainable fabrics, durability and timeless style.
You’re well known for championing young talent. What it’s like to nurture young businesses? I started in the garment industry when I was very young. My father was a very famous clothing manufacturer and my grandfather before him, so I spent a lot of time in factories and warehouses. I have a perspective about fashion and clothing that not only deals with the arts, but also with the science of the business. I’ve been lucky enough to understand how commerce and creativity come together in this field, and a big part of how I got to where I am today was through the help of great mentors. So part of me understands how important it is to help others develop their careers. It’s also good for me not to get insulated in just what I do, and I think it’s important to see what’s happening in the industry around the world.
Who’s had the greatest influence on you?
My first and major mentor was my father. He passed away when I was 25 years old, but I worked very closely with him when I was just starting out. After I spent time working in the factories and warehouses, I moved to New York and worked closely with my father on the business end of things. His ability to generate good ideas and collaborate with the right people was unparalleled. A lot of what he taught me of business philosophy and methodology still sticks with me today. I think a lot of people struggle working for their fathers, but my father never expected me to do things the exact same way as he did; he let me develop a style that worked for me.
What factors do you think drive a young company to success? I like the entrepreneurial nature of young companies; they are able to disrupt without as much risk. With that said, the two most important makings of a successful company are integrity and authenticity. They have to do business with integrity, and have a strong culture and be authentic in their vision.
Would you say that risk-taking is much harder for a bigger company than a small one? It definitely is. Younger companies have less to protect, but no matter if the business is big or small, it’s important to be open to new opportunities. Taking risks can sometimes end up in mistakes, but it’s important to make mistakes— and if you don’t make mistakes, you’re not learning.