Insider Guide to Beirut
Known as the Paris of the Middle East before Lebanon’s devastating civil war, Beirut has risen spectacularly from the ashes. Five locals give us their top tips for the capital and elsewhere
It was known as the Paris of the Middle East before 25 years of bloody civil war reduced much of it to rubble. It's been a long road back since peace returned in 1990, but Beirut has risen spectacularly from the ashes and is one of this year’s hottest travel destinations, with art, food, hotels and nightlife to rival London, Shanghai and New York. Overlooking the Mediterranean, with green hills forming a protective arch to the east, the Lebanese capital is as beautiful as it is buzzing. Lovers of Middle Eastern food will find a dynamic dining scene offering everything from traditional ice cream parlours, hipster coffee shops and bustling falafel stalls to stylish fine-dining restaurants serving modern takes on classic Lebanese dishes. Beirutis are famous party animals and this is a city that never sleeps, so expect to be dancing until dawn at one of the famous rooftop bars or subterranean nightclubs. Thanks to Lebanese haute couturier Elie Saab, Beirut is firmly on the fashion map. Locals dress to impress—even if they’re just popping out to buy milk—so bring your style A-game. Beirut is also one of the most progressive cities in the region when it comes to LGBT issues, women’s rights and multiculturalism—something that is reflected in Beirut’s plentiful street art and the rise of new contemporary galleries and art fairs. Although a modern, cosmopolitan city today, Beirut’s history lives on through its crumbling Ottoman-era architecture, old mosques, Roman baths and the seafront promenade known as the Corniche, a peoplewatching paradise since its genesis in the 1920s. The physical scars of the civil war are still apparent in bullet-pocked walls and bomb-damaged buildings, but the city feels safe and welcoming. Travel to certain areas, however, is not advised, so check with your concierge before venturing off the beaten track. With so much to see and do, Jakki Phillips enlisted the help of five local insiders to plan the perfect trip. Here are their top tips for Beirut and across Lebanon.