Natural Beauty
An eight-year research project in the South of France discovered powerful new anti-ageing agents Chanel has put to work in two new additions to its Sublimage line
The South of France is delightful in more ways than one. It’s a part of the world seemingly designed for pleasure, be it sipping glasses of pale rosé by the Mediterranean or relaxing in sun-drenched villages high in the hills. But it turns out that this dream holiday destination can also make you prettier—and we’re not just talking about improving your suntan.
Inspired by the countryside of Provence, which grows many ingredients used in the world of perfume, Chanel initiated a research programme for its Sublimage skincare collection under the watchful eye of Nicola Fuzzati, Chanel’s director of ingredients innovation and development. A laboratory was built to study more than 500 wild plants, including their history, medicinal properties and endemicity, to assess their potential for use in the Sublimage line. The research continued for almost eight years.
Chanel has a long and fruitful history of using ingredients from the natural world, many of them harvested in Madagascar, in its skincare lines. The French study resulted in the refining of five extracts that have become central ingredients in the Sublimage range. These include solidago, the keystone of Sublimage L’essence Fondamentale, and anthyllis, a vital ingredient in Sublimage L’essence Lumière.
Solidago is a canary yellow flower that grows in the rocky foothills of the Alps just north of Nice. It is collected by hand during the hot days from June to September, and then dried before the active molecules die. “Immediately after harvest, the plant is left to dry naturally in the open air,” says Fuzzati. “This stops the enzymatic activities and keeps the molecules of interest intact until their extraction.”
These molecules then go on to have a major impact on skin when applied through Sublimage L’essence Fondamentale, acting quickly to improve cellular vitality and restore density to the skin mattress by up to 54 per cent. Both preventive and corrective, solidago targets the epidermal cells, the keratinocytes and the dermal fibroblasts (the all-important collagen producers). As if by magic, aged cells suddenly begin to regenerate. “Since they are alpine plants, they are accustomed to harsh climate conditions,” says Fuzzati. “These plants develop mechanisms to defend themselves, and it is those molecules that are very interesting from a pharmaceutical point of view.”
Another species that caught his attention is anthyllis, a Provencal plant with an incredible ability to resist hostile environments. When combined with the antioxidants from vanilla planifolia in one product, it helps protect against the damaging impact of city life—pollution, harsh indoor light and toxins. When anthyllis is applied to the skin through Sublimage L’essence Lumière, it protects your natural texture and colour. Within a few days, it reveals the original radiance and infuses the complexion with light and health.
Chanel has taken hard-working plants from France’s most sensual region and used them to create anti-ageing products that really work for the modern woman. Poetry in lotion.