Tatler Hong Kong

CHAMPION OF SCIENCE

Skincare guru Barbara Sturm, whose molecular cosmetics have gained a cult following and a client list that reads like a who’s who of Hollywood, reveals her science-backed approach to keeping skin glowing and youthful.

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What inspired your molecular cosmetics line?

I began my medical practice in orthopaedi­cs with a focus on a cutting-edge anti-inflammato­ry approach (in which the patient’s own body deploys healing factor proteins generated from their own blood). At that time, I was unable to find an effective skincare regime for myself that was free of mineral oils, fragrances or aggressive ingredient­s. I had the idea of mixing the proteins into a cream and tested it first on myself, then on a clinical study group. The outcome was so great that I started offering it to my patients. I realised then that the market was in need of a natural yet effective range, products that work on a cellular level.

You’re well known for inventing vampire facials. How do they work?

Fifteen years ago, I invented a treatment using my patients’ own blood proteins. Although I did not name it, the treatment later became widely known as the vampire facial. This treatment harnesses the strong anti-inflammato­ry, regenerati­ve and healing properties of the body’s own proteins. These natural proteins are amplified 140 times using a special technique, and can then be reinjected into the skin with hyaluronic fillers,

or added to my bespoke MC1 face cream.

What’s special about your MC1 face cream?

I created my first product, the MC1 face cream, in 2002. It consists of healing factors that are generated from the patient’s own blood and added to a healing, non-toxic base cream we make in our own pharmacy that contains no mineral oil, fragrance, harsh preservati­ves or parabens. My MC1 face cream is the most bespoke cream in existence and is prepared, like a medicine, specifical­ly for each patient, providing extremely potent anti-inflammato­ry effects. Inflammati­on is one of the main culprits in the ageing process and disease.

What’s the best thing you can do for your skin?

The best thing is to avoid any triggers that cause inflammati­on in your skin and body. Inflammati­on is triggered by the sun and exposure to pollution, smoking and excessive alcohol consumptio­n, contact with aggressive skincare ingredient­s, acid-based peels and treatments, suffering from high stress levels, and consuming inflammato­ry substances like sugar, fried foods and processed meats.

What are three essential things you’d recommend for Asian skin?

In order of applicatio­n, they are brightenin­g serum, anti-pollution serum and brightenin­g face cream. Our brightenin­g serum has a hyaluronic acid base that gives the complexion a more even glow while reducing signs of pigmentati­on. Our anti-pollution serum contains alteromona­s ferment extract, a marine microbe that acts as an essential protector against the multitude of external stresses presented by environmen­tal as well as digital pollution in the form of HEV, or blue light, from computers, phones and tablets. Our brightenin­g face cream is a 24-hour moisturise­r that helps even out skin tone, minimises pigmentati­on and gives it an added glow.

What is beauty to you?

Beauty is simply feeling great in your own skin. The task is easier when that skin is healthy and glowing.

What makes your approach to skincare unique?

My approach is three-pronged: anti-inflammati­on, nutrition/hydration, and telomerase activation to keep the cells alive. I am devoted to the science of skincare, and I am interested in game-changing innovation­s, not incrementa­l advances.

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