Out of the Ordinary

Heritage watchmakers are symbols of luxury, but it’s unconventional brands that are capturing my attention, writes longtime collector Winston Koo

Heritage watchmakers are symbols of luxury, but unconventional brands are also capturing our attention

Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet dominate the headspace of watch collectors due to their exceptional quality and historical significance. These names have been around for decades and, in some cases, centuries. They’ve come to define today’s industry, but they’re not the only purveyors of exceptional timepieces. From ancient sundials to atomic clocks, society has a fascination for the means of measuring time, and connoisseurs today are spoilt for choice when it comes to adorning their wrist.

Despite this, it’s not uncommon for a connoisseur to feel that after a few years their collection is starting to look the same. I have 18 years of experience collecting watches, typically favouring mainstream maisons that combine impressive craftsmanship with traditional design. Until last year, that is, when my interest in independent watchmakers was piqued.

My newfound fondness for unconventional timepieces is rooted in their creative design, which appeals to those who aren’t afraid to attract attention. Heritage brands do, of course, routinely experiment with complex technology, but these left-field watchmakers dare to go even further, incorporating totally unexpected details into their unorthodox structures that make great conversation starters.

I’ve recently added several of these eccentric brands to my collection. In the process, I’ve met many of the impassioned artisans that work tirelessly behind the scenes for each house. This has given me a greater appreciation for the detail that goes into these offbeat models. Producing so much more than simple wristwatches, these names are worth noting.