Tatler Hong Kong

IN CHINA

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All of this is creating huge demand for ever bigger data centres. For investors, this has created a kind of gold rush, as data centre companies seek funding to build so-called hyperscale facilities with thousands of servers. Until recently, most of these were in the US and belonged to companies such as Amazon, Google and Microsoft, but China is catching up quickly.

“We call it Chinascale, because it’s bigger than hyperscale,” says Oliver Jones, chief executive of Chayora, a Hong Kong company that focuses on building data centres in Mainland China. “There’s going to be more data centres built in China in the next 10 years than the rest of the world put together.”

The levels of technical innovation in artificial intelligen­ce, machine learning and related applicatio­ns in China mean that data volumes are growing exponentia­lly, according to Jones.

One of the biggest investors in this field is Actis, a British private equity firm that led a US$180 million Series-c investment in Chayora in October through its Asian real-estate funds.

Chayora already has a data centre building on an 32-hectare campus in Tianjin that serves the greater Beijing area of 150 million people. The new injection of cash will support the acquisitio­n of further land in Tianjin and also the first land plots for planned centres in provinces neighbouri­ng Shanghai.

No garment district on Earth has been immortalis­ed quite like Savile Row. Stretching from Vigo Street in London’s Mayfair up to Conduit Street, “The Row”, as it is known in fashion circles, dates back to the late 17th century when the first Earl of Burlington bought up half of Piccadilly. Naturally he purchased the surroundin­g land too, and, in time, filled it with tailors to ensure he and his sons were immaculate­ly attired.

Today, Savile Row dresses everyone from Prince William and Jay-z to James Bond and Benedict Cumberbatc­h, and has been immortalis­ed in film and fiction. However, storm clouds loomed for The Row—which largely relies on the bankers of Wall Street to stay afloat—when, late last year, President Trump slapped an additional 25 per cent tariff on wool-based British exports to the US. Facing a crisis, the tailors of Savile Row turned to mainland China to find customers to help pick up the slack.

It hasn’t been an easy decade. Since the 2008 recession, men have become more careful with their spending, a trend that has been compounded by Trump’s unexpected tariffs and now the impact of the coronaviru­s pandemic. A bespoke Savile Row suit costs an average of £4,800 (HK$46,000)—A sum only a niche market can afford.

However, savvy Asian investors are betting on brands such as Gieves & Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppard and Stowers London now that they have chosen to shift their focus to clients based in Asia at this difficult time. Gieves & Hawkes has tailoring stores in Hong Kong and Shanghai, and Anderson & Sheppard has trunk shows around Greater China.

“Asia is a very wide and varied market, but there is a general appreciati­on for tailoring and for dressing well for business,” says Anda Rowland, director of Anderson & Sheppard. “British tailors are far better known in Japan than China, and have been active there for many years.”

Richard Anderson, the co-founder of the eponymous brand (not related to Anderson & Sheppard), argues that it will do well in Asia because it has access to special lightweigh­t fabrics that are expensive to manufactur­e but ideal for hotter Asian climates. He says that the specific cuts have been honed to fit the waist and flare over the hips in a way back-street tailors’ rarely do, and that the result is far more flattering. Asian men are now also buying just a jacket or waistcoat from the storied brands and wearing them socially, rather than to work.

But how wise an investment is luxury suiting right now? “Luxury is hit hard in economic downturns, nobody would argue with that,” says Vinnie Lauria, the founding partner of Golden Gate Ventures, a venture capital firm in Singapore. “That’s common knowledge and a market norm, but I actually think the coronaviru­s represents an investment opportunit­y. The market is a lot more nuanced than it looks—and if you are a luxury brand right now, then, yes, you are you going to have less revenue in 2020, but even if your sales are

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