Good Knight
Jeweller Austy Lee finds inspiration in the chivalric values of medieval times
Today, when we talk about the qualities of a gentleman, chivalry is often a word that comes into play. Extending far beyond contemporary clichés such as opening a door for a lady, it’s a concept that dates back to the knights of medieval times, in Europe from the 11th to the 15th century.
The original deinition of chivalry placed an emphasis on bravery, honour and loyalty. Essentially aristocratic warriors, knights of the time swore allegiance to their lords and kings in exchange for rewards of land, titles and glory. Many of these knights embarked upon quests and crusades at the order of the church or their liege lords.
Chivalry also integrated the concept of courtly love—idealised (and often chaste) romantic relationships between knights and noblewomen. In all its forms, chivalry was celebrated in literature, song, poetry and art, and it was incumbent upon knights to embody its ideals in battle and everyday life, adhering to a strict moral code, displaying mercy, piety, humility, and protecting the weak.
It is this period in history and these values that provide the inspiration for Austy Lee’s latest creation, the Sword of Crusades Necklace from the Or-en-noir Collection. This elegant and eyecatching necklace in 18-karat yellow gold is adorned with Tahitian and Akoya pearls, black and red enamel, and fancy coloured and white diamonds.
Akoya cultured pearls grow in bays off the coast of Japan, within the Pinctada Fucata oyster—the smallest pearl-producing oyster— and are thus more diminutive than South Sea and Tahitian pearls. Despite their name, Tahitian pearls do not necessarily originate in Tahiti—this is merely home to the main marketplace where blacklip pearls cultivated in French Polynesia are traded. Tahitian pearls are distinguished by their brilliant natural colours, ranging from graphite to metallic silver, often found with green, blue or purple aspects.
Another piece from Lee’s latest line-up that is inspired by blades of antiquity is the Cherub Sword Necklace. Drawn, like the Sword of Crusades Necklace, from the Or-en-noir Collection, this exquisite creation in 18-karat rose gold is similarly embellished with Tahitian and Akoya pearls, black enamel, fancy coloured and white diamonds.
Lee has imagined this as a mythical sword carried by a cherub, a type of angel that appears in all the Abrahamic religions, providing a delightful point of unity for those of many faiths.