GOOD BOOKS, A CURRENT TART AND A DESERT MEMORY

A cook book I was browsing yesterday, purchased from a company specialising in “remaindered” items (i.e. publishers’ unsold stock and therefore at a “bargain” price) jogged my Mid-East memory cells and I thought, “Yes, there’s an idea here for this week’s column”.

It was in the 1960s. I was in a car on with no air-conditioning on a very hot July day climbing eastwards up the mountains of Lebanon on the busy, windy road to Damascus, the capital of Syria and onwards to Amman, Jordan. It was exciting, because it was my first such trip (my second was also exciting – see below) An older book about Lebanese cooking, some years in my possession and a great favourite, describes this journey with the stunning view as you breast the ridge of the hills much better than I can…

1. In a medium enamelled or stainless steel saucepan melt the butter over moderate heat.

2. Add the cherries and cook, stirring, about the water and bring to a boil.

3. Cook the mixture, uncovered, a few minutes or until the cherries have softened and given off most of their liquid. 4. Stir in the sugar and cinnamon and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens. 5. Season with salt. Serve hot with ground lamb or kibbeh kebabs or with poultry or game birds.

Makes about 1 3/4 cups. If sour cherries are unavailable, substitute ripe fresh cherries, pitted and add 1/4 cup freshly squeezed and strained lemon or lime juice along with the sugar and cinnamon. Do not use canned cherries for this recipe.

i minute. Add