Walter Lawry’s journey to Feejee
Part 3
SINCE Reverend Walter Lawry’s earlier visit in 1847 in Fiji, missionary work was in a state of constant progress which proved to be a good sign for the Wesleyan mission in the Pacific.
Onboard the missionary brig, John Wesley, Lawry sailed from the waters of Auckland towards Tonga before arriving in Fiji on July 20, 1950.
In the book, “A Second Missionary Visit to the Friendly and Feejee Islands,” Lawry stated the ship anchored at Oneata and went onshore when the weather was favourable.
“The poor people of Oneata were afraid of us at first, lest we might prove to be some of their own chiefs either from Lakeba or Bay, come to demand all their little food and property,” Lawry wrote.
During that time, it was the system they followed, all their property belonged to their chiefs and Lawry hoped Christianity would one day correct this abuse of authority.
Visit to Lakeba and Christianity
Soon Lawry and the crew sailed for Lakeba and paid a visit to the Tui Nayau, King of Lakeba who had embraced Christianity since he was last here.
“His religion, however, is only in word, and not in power, so far.
“He is by far the heaviest man I have seen, being more than six feet high, wide shoulders, stout limbs, and is withal most astonishingly fat.
“At present, he only attends public worship, and bows the knee to Jesus — but does not put away his many wives for says he, ‘I cannot afford to do so, these women are the main source of my wealth.”
During early service on a Sunday, the public preaching began at 9am on the island of Lakeba.
“After the first hymn had been sung, the people fell on their knees and uttered such piercing cries as I have not often heard — the voice of the minister could scarcely be heard for some time,” the book read.
“The crowd of serious worshippers were very great, and many dark Feejeean face lighted up with the joy — subdues and cheers — the inmost soul of the true Christian man.”
Lawry said the Tui Nayau was also present, but despite being a ‘lotu man’ he had a long way to go.
“The Tonga people residing here used to be in many instances mere scapegrace people, but the case is very different now.
“They are generally an orderly and respectable class, fearing God and walking uprightly.”
The Lakeba circuit had 24 islands within its circumference, and native teachers were spread out on 22 of them.
“Two islands are still heathens, but even these are crying out for teachers and glad should we be to have it in our power to send some proper, well qualified men to these openings and trust the divine providence will send us a supply. For the harvest truly is plenteous, but the labourers are few.
“Totoya is another fine island, where the Gospel has been planted by a native teacher sent there by the missionaries.”
One of the missionaries, John Malvern, had made a voyage of 400 miles and visited these stations.
On his return, he told Lawry of Joel, a Tongan man devoted to God and had set out on a Gospel scheme.
“During the last year, Joel has enrolled 60 persons as meeting in class and eighty who attend the school, beside almost the whole population who hear the word of God from his mouth.
“His own house, built by his own directions, is a pattern of neatness and good taste; while the chapel, which the people have raised,— is the best in this group.
“Here is the result of a native agency properly superintended by good Mr Lyth, and his zealous colleague — in 12 months 200 souls attended the lotu, chiefly through this teacher’s instrumentality.”
The school children
Lawry attended the school conducted at Lakeba by Mr John Malvern which consisted of about 100 native children.
He noticed the difference in how schools in Tonga were at an advanced stage whereas the work here was only just the beginning, but one that looked hopeful.
“In Tonga, the children sit with all the sober dignity of judges on the bench. Whereas the raw and lively children of Fiji, without discipline of any kind, just wild from the seashore and the bush,”
Lawry wrote.
“And in the school, while Mr Malvern was doing his best to hold their attention to the matter in hand, their restless activity and sportive nimbleness reminded me of an enclosure of monkeys in Regent’s Park, one of which seizes another’s ear, a third holding by the tail of the second monkey; one might safely defy stupor in such a situation.
“But wait a little and order will arise out of disorder.”
Lawry stated the children learnt with great rapidity and with good memory.
“Even before they have learnt to read they can repeat our Catechism or passages of scripture, chapter after chapter, hymns, and figures.
“To teach them to read, will, of course, be one of the objects of their instruction — nor will they be slow to learn.”
The King and the tabu fish
Lawry had soon heard of the story that occurred a short time ago since he had arrived on the island.
It was about a set of native females that had eaten a part of fish that was tabu to all but the chiefs.
These women were ordered to be judged by the old Pagan priest who had lived on Lakeba at the time and a severe punishment was expected.
“The missionaries raised their voice against this cruel injustice being carried on under the sanction of the King.
“He was cunning enough to meet the exigency of the case and sent for the two Popish priests and our two missionaries, that one party
might neutralise the other.
“They met in his presence, when he said very large things, and among the rest, that he was the greatest sovereign in this world.”
According to Lawry, Malvern replied with great astonishment and questioned the king, “What! greater than Queen Victoria?”
One of Tui Nayau’s men responded with a hearty yes.
“The missionaries and priests had but little altercation on this occasion, but our brethren laid heavily on the King and did not entirely forget the priests.
“The result was, that the women escaped; and the King has been heard to say, that was the beginning of his light and lotu.”
For Lawry, it was interesting to know that Tui Nayau believed himself to be the greatest monarch on earth.
“He was unable to read a letter in the alphabet, and his imperial city may contain 300 souls and is surrounded by a ditch or moat surmounted by a fence of reeds.
“This great city of Tuinayau is abundantly interspersed with stagnant water and mud pools, teeming with stinging insects and miasmata.”
NEXT WEEK PART 4.