THE ROADMAN WARDROBE, TOP TO BOTTOM

AIR MAX 95

Dubbed 110s because that’s what they cost in British pounds sterling, these mid-1990s sneakers designed by Sergio Lozano are a must-have in London, but not only: when Corteiz reissued them last year, it sparked riots in the streets of Paris.

AIR FORCE ONE BLACK

The antithesis of the white version, forever associated with the streets of New York, the black Air Force

One ranks among the symbols of London youth. So much so that it’s become part of the language: a guy you don’t want to mess with is said to have “black

Air Force energy.”

CORTEIZ GUERILLAZ CARGO PANTS

The striking Alcatraz Prison logo makes Corteiz’s instantly recognizable Guerillaz cargos a classic piece. This English brand’s high-impact marketing stunts are highly effective. One afternoon in fall 2022, they opened a pop-up shop in London’s Shepherd's Bush Market and sold cargo pants for 99 pence a pair.

NIKE TECH FLEECE TRACKSUIT

Still a wardrobe staple, as evidenced by the many song lyrics that continue to namecheck it. As in AdzMilli’s recent rap: "Fuck the dress code, man, step in with my B22s and a Nike Tech.”

TRAPSTAR HOODIE

On Trapstar hoodies, Gothic lettering spells out the brand’s name, and the tagline underneath is “It’s a secret.” They have been spotted on such rappers as Stormzy, Central Cee (who even has Trapstar tattooed just above his abs), J Hus and Dave. It’s no longer a secret.

NIKE HOODIE

Roll Deep’s “When I’m ’Ere” video elevated the black Nike hoodie with a white swoosh to icon status, and it remains an essential part of the roadman’s wardrobe. Rapper Kano, who plays one of the main characters in Top Boy, once explained: “It feels quite sinister, but a hoodie’s also like a defense mechanism, protection from the rain.”

NORTH FACE PUFFER JACKET

These jackets – mainly the black version – were ubiquitous on the British rap scene, but it’s the bright-blue-and-black 1992 Nuptse model that’s gone down in fashion history because that’s the one Jamie wears like a suit of armor on Top Boy.

TECHNICAL GLOVES

Because they keep your hands warm in the cold and prevent you from leaving any fingerprints, they’re always being mentioned in lyrics. A case in point is “RNS” by Digga D: “Gloves on coming like I never touched that, I ain’t going to jail duh, fuck that.” Nike’s technical running gloves are often the first choice.

NIKE BALACLAVA

In 2018, Nike launched a balaclava in collaboration with designer Matthew M. Williams, the founder of 1017 ALYX 9SM. All hell broke loose. Nike was accused of profiting from the violence of the drill scene and the escalation of knife crime in London. The piece was withdrawn from the market, and rappers had to fall back on Nike’s Therma-FIT.

LAKE ELSINORE STORM CAP

After celebrities like Dizzee Rascal and Skepta were spotted wearing this cap, the modest Californian minor-league baseball team Lake Elsinore Storm became world famous overnight. They still haven’t gotten over their amazement.