VertdeVin

Finger Lakes

RIESLINGS AND MORE!

- by Joanie Metivier

The Finger Lakes, in New York State, was establishe­d as an American Viticultur­e Area (AVA), the American equivalent to an IGP in 1982. It is the 4th biggest producing state in the United State. Yet, there are only 130 producers, mostly small, family owned estates. The region is known mostly for their Riesling Production, which represents about 1/10 of the total production. It’s a big deal and most producers will each have various styles of Riesling to offer, from dry to off-dry and even single vineyard expression­s. In the last decade or so, they began to show Riesling enormous potential and making world-class wines showing both identity and precision.

However, when traveling in the region, you might be extremely surprised by the diversity of varietals and style actually produced there. Cool climate Chardonnay in an array of style and expression­s, smoky Cabernet Franc, increasing amount of Gewürztram­iner and even Grüner Veltliner are being planted along the banks of the various lakes. Sparkling wine production has also proven to be a huge success. Finger Lakes was previously known as an agricultur­e paradise, with a strong precedency to table grape growing, mostly hybrids. In the 1950s, Ukrainian immigrant Dr. Konstantin Frank, armed with a Ph.D. in viticultur­e, was the first to successful­ly plant Vinifera grapes in the Finger Lakes. He was the first at the time, but also pretty much the only one. Winemaking only truly began after 1976, with the passing of the New York Farm Winery Act, allowing grape growers to sell directly to the public. This was the saving grace of many struggling families in the region and led to fast developmen­t. Today, producers still sell most of their production directly to their customers, right off their front door.

Finger Lakes production is mostly nestled along the benches of Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes, the deepest of the 11 long, narrow lakes in central New York. These large bodies of water offer unique and quite apparent temperatur­e-moderating influences. It is said that Seneca Lake, the deepest of them all only partially freeze, once every hundred years.

SENECA LAKE

The effect of the Seneca Lake on the surroundin­g wineries is quite evident. Vineyards planted on both sides have heavily different influences. On the West side, we’ll find bigger amount of white grapes planted, with outstandin­g tension and vibrancy. On the other hand, the East side is kindly called the Banana Belt. Warmer overall with better exposition to the sun, vineyards are planted higher in altitude, further from the water and this is where you’ll find the best expression­s of Cabernet Franc and even some Meritage blends.

Half of Finger Lakes wineries have views on Seneca Lake, even if some of them owns vineyards across various lakes. You can easily go around and discover. It’s your chance to see the amazing view from Atwater Estate vineyards and taste their fun skin-fermented white blend. Stop by Fox run for their world-class Chardonnay and their mature selection of Rieslings. Don’t miss the outstandin­g precision and balance in Hermann J. Wiemer wines. Experience the fun ambiance of Hazlitt 1852 vineyards, one of the oldest and most expansive vineyards in the region. Visit the family run Lakewood vineyard, remember to taste their 3 generation­s Riesling and ask about their innovative approach to carbonatio­n that serves producers all around Finger Lakes. Don’t miss the sustainabl­e approach of Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars with their reserve wine offer and outstandin­g selection. Take a sip at Wagner Vineyards, who’s proven the potential of a Meritage blend in the Seneca Lake region as well as the aging potential of their Rieslings. There’s still so much room for developmen­t from this upcoming, awakening region. Their dynamism will help them push boundaries for sure!

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