Most galleries are open 11am-6pm Tue-sat Start at U: Kochstr., coming out onto Friedrichstr. towards Checkpoint Charlie, and turn right at Rudi-dutschke-str. for #23 gallerists’ fave Italian at 50-esque Sale e Tabacchi / 252 950 03. The grey block opposite at #26 is home to Tim Raue (see Restaurants/smart), as well as four galleries, including Crone / 259 24 49 / 11am-6pm Tue-sat / established artists and experimental works; VW / 816 160 418 / global names and in-house bar; and Galerie Isabella Czarnowska / 258 996 04 / contempo Polish artists. Exit the building right, turning right again at Friedrichstr., to the infamous east-west border crossing, Checkpoint Charlie, an area now occupied by the socks and sandals army. Run like a robber’s dog past the drab museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, and leg it left onto Zimmerstr., pacing on to #13 on the left for scents-ual Frau Tonis Perfume / 202 153 10; and Daadgalerie at #90-91 / 261 36 40 / across the street, which hosts the prestigious artists-in-residence program, Berliner Künstlerprogramm. Haben sie Hunger, Hedwig? Retrace to Friedrichstr., turn left and take the first right, Schützenstr., for Entrecôte at #5 / 201 654 96 / on the right, should you fancy a steak frites, or push on, making a left at Charlottenstr. and toddle up a couple blocks to #24 for more art at Galerie Thomas Schulte / 206 089 90, then further up at #63 is Cadadia / 346 208 08 / for steaming, freshly made soups. Or, carry on and take the next right into Mohrenstr., passing Gendarmenmarkt square on your left, faithfully restored to its C.17th grandeur, then spin into the next left, Markgrafenstr., for sunny café Quchnia at #35 / 206 092 86 / on the right with a natty summer terrace. Next, hop up the street for Shan Rahimkhan at #36 / 206 78 90, a glossy black microcosmos of glitz, with designer homeware, coiffeur, plus a swish café. With your back to Shan, cross Markgrafenstr. and charge straight through Gendarmenmarkt, to reach the intersection with Charlottenstr. and cross the street, noting classic Lutter & Wegner (see Lunch) at #56 on the right. Take the street between the two (Taubenstr.) for Berlin’s take on Barneys, Quartier 206 / Friedrichstr. 71 / 209 468 00 / with lovely blooms on the G/F, plus Armani, Wang et al. nesting seductively upstairs. Head back through Gendarmenmarkt the way you came, and when you meet Markgrafenstr., cross it and take a left. Now, either pivot right into Jägerstr. for vibrant watercolour and oil paintings by Expressionist pioneer Emil Nolde at #55 Nolde Stiftung Seebüll / 400 046 90, and Vau (see Restaurants/formal) at #54, or simply continue on Markgrafenstr. for fluid, earthy streetwear (w) at #42 Annette Görtz / 524 153 090, then carry on, crossing Französische Str. for directional m/w fash and lifestyle brands at #40 The Corner / 206 709 40 / on the left. Phew! Retrace to Quchnia or the café at Shan to rest those trotters, or from The Corner, exit left, heading up Markgrafenstr., then turn right onto Behrenstr. for the swank Hotel de Rome (see Accom.) on your right, with tea-spot The Opera Court (see Kaffee), swellegant Bebel Bar (see Bars) with sexy roof terrace, as well as blissmaker Spa de Rome (see Spa). How’s that for glamvenient?