Stabroek News Sunday

Born in China, peaches easily swing sweet and savory

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(Reuters) - One of China's many gifts to world cuisine is the peach, and with the season in full swing, now is the time to celebrate this most ancient and beloved of fruits. Peaches have been an important aspect of traditiona­l culture in China, and were first described in the agricultur­al manual, Xiaxiaozhe­ng, written almost 4,000 years ago.

The Daoists considered them important symbols of immortalit­y, and other works celebrate their associatio­n with youth. For example, in the Shijing (Book of Odes), a compilatio­n of poetry and song from about 3,000 to 2,500 years ago, the peach tree is compared to a young bride with brilliant flowers, abundant fruit and luxuriant leaves: The peach tree is young and elegant; Brilliant are its flowers. This young lady is going to her future home, And will order well her chamber and house. The culinary uses of peaches in China are generally more varied than they are in the west. We tend to limit our use of peaches to sweeter dishes, such as pies, cakes, cobblers and fruit salads. Additional­ly, we use them to add a sweet flavour to oatmeal and other cereals, generally served at breakfast.

In China, peaches are featured in both sweet and savory dishes. From the familiar peach-based duck sauce, and savory and spicy sauces for meats, to pickled peaches and even half-sour peach kebabs, peaches are everywhere. Peaches in China also tend to be eaten when we would consider them to be a bit under-ripe and hard. So, even in sweeter dishes, they often have a slightly sour tang to them when compared to sweet peach dishes in the west.

Recent archaeolog­ical analysis of peach stones (pits) has concluded that peaches were first domesticat­ed in China's lower Yangzi Valley beginning almost 8,000 years ago. In the area just a little south and west of Shanghai, feral ancestors of today's peach (Prunus persica) were consciousl­y selected for fruit size and taste, time from germinatio­n to fruiting and length of fruiting season.

The domesticat­ion process was complete in China by about 6,700 years ago, and the peach was introduced to areas of coastal Japan by about 6400 years BP (before the present). The larger, sweeter cultivars spread quickly and were commonly eaten across China by about 4000 BP. Domesticat­ed peaches were first seen in India by about 3700 BP -- a tribute to the power of early Silk Road trade.

 ??  ?? Ralph Fiennes
Ralph Fiennes

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