Stabroek News Sunday

Hey, chocolate lovers: new study traces complex origins of cacao

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WASHINGTON, (Reuters) - Scientists are getting a better taste of the early history of the domesticat­ion and use of cacao - the source of chocolate - thanks to residues detected on a batch of ancient ceramics from South and Central America.

Using evidence from these artifacts, the researcher­s traced the rapid spread of cacao through trade routes after its initial domesticat­ion more than five millennia ago in Ecuador. They showed cacao’s dispersal to South America’s northweste­rn Pacific coast and later into Central America until it eventually reached Mexico 1,500 years later.

A tropical evergreen tree called Theobroma cacao bears large, oval pods containing the bean-like cacao seeds that today are roasted and turned into cocoa and multitudes of chocolate confection­s. In these ancient times, cacao was consumed as a beverage or an ingredient with other foods.

The researcher­s tested more than 300 pre-Columbian ceramics spanning nearly 6,000 years for traces of cacao DNA and three chemical compounds related to it, including caffeine. They discovered cacao evidence on about 30% of them. The findings indicate cacao products were used more widely among these ancient cultures than previously known.

The ceramics themselves offered an artistic glimpse at the cultures, some displaying wondrous anthropomo­rphic designs.

A study published in 2018 revealed the domesticat­ion and use of cacao beginning about 5,300 years ago in Ecuador, based on evidence from ceramics at the Santa Ana-La Florida archeologi­cal site. The new study builds on that by tracking cacao’s spread through 19 preColumbi­an cultures. Some of the earliest use was shown through ceramics made by the Valdivia culture in Ecuador and Puerto Hormiga culture in Colombia.

The ancient DNA found on the ceramics also indicated that various cultures cross-bred cacao trees to adapt to new environmen­ts.

“The first steps of cacao domesticat­ion correspond to a more complex process than the one we had previously hypothesiz­ed,” said molecular geneticist Claire Lanaud from the AGAP unit of CIRAD, a French agricultur­al research center for internatio­nal developmen­t, lead author of the study published on Thursday in the journal Scientific Reports.

 ?? ?? Cacao beans are seen in Tokyo
Cacao beans are seen in Tokyo

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