Heart of the Matter

Seven dramatic timepieces that are unafraid to bare their soul

BVLGARI

Developed and produced inhouse, the 40mm Octo Finissimo Skeleton watch is a sight to behold with its slender 5.5mm case. Every component – case, dial, crown, bracelet and buckle – is made from ceramic that seamlessly integrates into a lattice motif. Boasting a 65-hour power reserve, it’s driven by the extrathin skeletonised mechanical manufacture movement with manual winding, small seconds and power reserve indication – the BVL 128SK Finissimo calibre

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultrathin Skeleton watch in pink gold is the first skeletonised variant of the line. In true Vacheron Constantin style, it elegantly combines precious metal with an ultra-slim openworked complication movement just 8.1mm thick. The 41.5mm watch houses the proprietary Calibre 1120 QPSQ, which needs no adjustment until Mar 1, 2100. The entirely skeletonised anthracite grey mechanism is Nac-treated and the transparent caseback stages a fascinating show starring the gear trains and Nac-treated oscillating weight with its segment in 22k gold – also openworked for the first time in the Overseas collection to highlight its stylised Maltese Cross design. As with all models in the range that come with a quickchange system, this watch comes fitted with a gold bracelet and is accompanied by two additional straps in blue rubber, and blue alligator leather (pictured).

ROGER DUBUIS

The devil is in the details and the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina pushes creative irreverence to breaking point. The 45mm masterpiece combines a single flying tourbillon with an old-world minute-repeater complication. Ever the rebel, Roger Dubuis chose to tune its minute repeater to the famous Diabolus in Musica, which is what this watch is named after. The Latin term for “The Devil in Music”, the ominous sounding tritone was outlawed in medieval religious music as it was said to summon the devil. Its case is crafted from Cartech Micro-melt Biodur CCMTM, as are the gong elements so they do not need to be tuned. Spokes that criss-cross add geometric rigour with chaos, lending excitement to the watch. The one-off creation is powered by the proprietary RD0107 Calibre and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

CARTIER

While the return of Pasha de Cartier this year sees a close resemblance to the debut model from 1985, a few significant updates have been made. There are two sizes – 35mm for ladies and 41mm for men – and a wide range of variations spanning basic to dressy. Showcased here is one of the more extravagant variants, the 41mm openworked Pasha de Cartier Skeleton Tourbillon in 18k pink gold with a crown-set sapphire cabochon. Still maintaining its graphic signature of a square rail track in the circle of the dial, a boldly placed tourbillon takes centre stage at 6 o’clock. What draws your gaze are the arresting openworked bridges of the movement that form baton indices and Arabic numerals. The watch is equipped with the manual-winding manufacture mechanical movement 9466 MC, and comes with interchangeable Quickswitch grey and black alligator straps.

LOUIS VUITTON

The 46mm Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève features an innovative hand-wound mechanical movement LV 109 Calibre with an 80-hour power reserve and a tourbillon regulator. The geometric openwork of the construction diverts your attention to the titanium tourbillon carriage at 9 o’clock – inspired by the floral motif of the maison’s famed monogram. Assembled and finished by hand, the movement requires over 120 hours of work to achieve this level of technical excellence as the Geneva Seal at 6 o’clock proves. Sitting proudly in the middle is a black Nac-treated openworked plate with a rhodium-plated LV bridge studded with 178 round-cut diamonds. Featuring a unique marble finish, the outer part of the case is made from ultra-lightweight Carbostratum, a composite material developed exclusively for the house. The white gold lugs, flange and crown are further embellished with 152 baguette-cut diamonds.

PANERAI

In line with the maison’s commitment to conservation, the Submersible Ecopangaea Tourbillon GMT 50mm Mike Horn Edition features the new Ecopangaea high-tech steel. Composed of recycled metal from the 35m drive shaft of the famed explorer’s sailing ship, Pangaea, this is the collection’s first model with a tourbillon. The watch is distinguished by a unidirectional rotating bezel with polished indexes on a sandblasted base, Arctic blue details and an engraved porthole caseback. The rugged 50mm reference is powered by the advanced manufacture hand-wound calibre P.2005/T. A skeletonised titanium movement flaunts three barrels responsible for a six-day power reserve and a 30-second tourbillon. Also offering 300m water resistance, GMT function and an AM/ PM indicator, the five-piece limited edition model is truly made for the Arctic expedition with Horn himself that comes with its purchase.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

The 88-piece limited edition crystalline sapphire case of the Laureato Absolute Light allows for a stunning transparent view of the movement from all angles with perfect light reflection on its matte and polished surfaces. The octogonal mainplate is screwed together with the bezel, case and caseback on each of the eight angles of the octagon, highlighting the iconic Laureato shape. At the heart of the lightweight 44mm watch beats a reworked interpretation of the skeletonised GP01800 movement. The distinctive shape of the oscillating weight in hollowed-out gold ensures the movement is clearly visible, while the black Nac-treated ring has 12 curved sections that act as hour markers between mirror-polished triangles. The rubber strap integrates seamlessly into the watch, adding an extra touch of modernity.

PIAGET

Serving as a horological experiment, the house unveiled the world’s thinnest mechanical watch in 2018, the 2mm-thick Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Now, the complex and technically advanced 41mm creation is finally available for purchase as a customisable piece with 10,000 permutations. Five patents have been filed as a result of realising the ultra-thin watch, which is driven by the manual calibre 900P-UC. Aside from integrating the movement plate directly into the case, it is also made with a high-tech cobalt-based alloy 2.3 times stronger than gold for rigidity when worn. Indicating the time had to be re-thought too. Instead of a dial and hands atop a bridge, the AUC features a dial beneath it, which doubles as protection from contact with the wafer-thin crystal. To conform to the thinness, even the crown is recessed into the caseband.

FRANCK MULLER

The Vanguard Racing Skeleton is inspired by the world of

Formula 1. Its FM 2800-DT calibre has been skeletonised to reveal its inner workings and vital organs, as is the openworked hunk of a carbon case. Within its sleek polymer case is an inner bezel demarcated by a black and white minute track, while the inner chapter ring with red and white minute markings resembles a racing circuit. In the centre is a novel 60-second counter subdial that mimics a gauge on a dashboard. A closer look reveals a view of gears, wheels, screws and jewels beneath. The underside showcases movement bridges and engravings finished in 24k gold and Pvdcoated to blend in with the elegant design.