A NEW MILESTONE
Gucci’s debut line of high-complication watches gives a fashionable spin to haute horlogerie. In an exclusive interview, the brand’s global managing director for watches and jewellery, MAURIZIO PISANU, tells about the timepieces and Gucci’s latest calibre
In 1972, Gucci made watchmaking history when it became the rst luxury fashion house to introduce a Swiss-made timepieces. Almost 50 years later, the brand continues to design watches that are manufactured in the Swiss city of La Chaux-de-fonds. Assembly, diamond setting and quality control take place there, while Gucci’s Fabbrica Quadrant facility in the canton of Ticino creates dials with a combination of technologically advanced methods and traditional craftsmanship. It’s at Gucci’s watch headquarters in Neuchâtel where the house’s watch design know-how comes together.
To mark its centenary this year, the world’s largest luxury fashion-watch producer has made its highwatchmaking debut, so why did it take so long? Maurizio Pisanu, Gucci’s worldwide managing director for watches and jewellery, explains.
“After the successful launch of our high jewellery two years ago,” he says, “it was a natural step to enter the world of high watchmaking. This project started before the pandemic, and during the months of development when the execution was taking shape, we were astonished by the accomplishments and couldn’t wait any longer to reveal them.”
Designed by Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele and launched over the course of the year, the 33 new timepieces in four high-end lines are a fusion of the brand’s eclectic Italian style and Swiss expertise. However, beyond the striking tourbillons, moonphase creations, jumping-hour movements and exquisite gem-set designs, it’s the new GG727.25 calibre that takes pride of place.
Gucci’s rst movement was developed and is now produced at the movement manufacture of parent company Kering in La Chaux-de-fonds. “It’s a real technical achievement and a new milestone for Gucci,” says Pisanu. “Various teams were involved in the design process, which took around a year, and we’re very proud of the result.”
Housed within the new Gucci 25H watch, the selfwinding ultra-slim movement references important numerical symbols: “7” encapsulates a sense of completeness, “2” represents balance and cooperation, while “5” symbolises curiosity and freedom.
GUCCI 25H
Playfully named after Michele’s favourite numbers, the Gucci 25H watch with a 60-hour power reserve features sleek, sporty lines with contrasting nishes. Its slender 40mm case allows for the unisex watch to wear like a second skin. Chic, versatile and timeless, the automatic timepiece is offered in steel and pavé diamond-set models, as well as two tourbillon variants in platinum and yellow gold. Pisanu admits to having a soft spot for the model: “The highlight for me is the Gucci 25H Tourbillon in yellow gold. We’ve always been fascinated by the tourbillon as it’s such a complex piece of micro-engineering.
It’s a bold and sophisticated combination with the clean, sporty design of the watch.”
G-TIMELESS
Five exceptional eclectic designs make up the G-timeless range. A nod to the Gucci Garden, the G-timeless Dancing Bees is a compelling creation with bees that move on the dial. Presented in 40mm tourbillon versions, the model is available in white or yellow gold, with or without a diamond-set bezel on an alligator strap, as well as two high-jewellery pieces on diamondset bracelets. Additionally, the Dancing Bees automatic model is offered in a 36mm and 40mm white-gold variant with a diamond-set bracelet.
“The G-timeless Dancing Bees Tourbillon collection is a perfect combination of the savoir-faire of Swiss watchmaking and the stylish Gucci ourish,” says Pisanu. “It’s a remarkable technical creation with a complex mechanism, where each bee seems to dance on the dial with every movement of the wrist.”
If you love ornamental stones, there are three G-timeless Automatic 38mm creations that feature a yellow-gold case with the bee motif on a unique dial of malachite, onyx or tiger’s eye. Michele incorporated his love for celestial iconography on a trio of 40mm G-timeless Moonphase models that feature diamond-set white-gold bezels and mother-of-pearl dials. Lastly, the automatic G-timeless Pavé in white gold dazzles with a dial bedecked with diamonds.
GRIP
Crafted in precious materials, each Grip timepiece is tted with a jumping-hour module triggered to jump forward every hour to a minute disc that sweeps around through 60 minutes. This technology is creatively expressed on the new models in curved apertures on each dial, allowing for a clean, legible numerical display.
Precison-cut and shaped by artisans, hardstone dials in black falcon’s eye, malachite and tiger’s eye adorn three new 38mm gold creations in yellow or white gold. Gleaming with a row of 44 baguette-cut diamonds is the fourth Grip design, made entirely in yellow gold with a brushed-gold dial engraved with the house’s logo.
The 40mm Grip Sapphire exudes a futuristic vibe with a full sapphire crystal case. Four colours are offered for the edgy fth edition in the line: clear, blue, green and pink with a transparent embossed rubber strap.
HIGH JEWELLERY WATCHES
A treasure trove of precious creations with quartz movements draw from the house’s design motifs, Dionysus, Lion Head and Gucci Play. Lovers of secret watches will appreciate the 29mm x 23mm Lion Head, which showcases a diamond-set face of a roaring lion in white or yellow gold that swivels to reveal a malachite, turquoise or tiger’s-eye dial.
Fans of Gucci’s emblematic snake will like the opulent 23mm Dionysus yellow-gold bangle watch, which comes in two versions: a mother-of-pearl dial with tsavorites on the bangle, or a full diamond-set dial with a diamondand tsavorite-embellished bangle. Presented in white or yellow gold with am other-of-pearl or diamond embellished dial, the 26 mm Gucci Play watch offers 13 dazzling variations with detachable bezels ranging from a pared-down Gucci logo in yellow gold to a coiling white-gold snake set with scintillating diamonds.