THERE’ S GOLD IN THE GREEN美不勝收的瑪格麗特河

How did a rural backwater become one of the planet’s most exciting and innovative travel destinations? CATHY ADAMS lets Western Australia’s Margaret River work its magic 籍籍無名的鄉郊地方如何變身為全球最吸引最新穎的旅遊目的地？ Cathy Adams到西澳的瑪格麗特河親自體驗當地的魅力

After two hours’ driving from Perth towards Busselton, the tip of Margaret River wine country, the landscape soon changes. Forests sprout from grassy scrubland, late morning sunshine bounces off the empty roads. Margaret River is one of Western Australia’s best-loved wine and food destinations, but it feels like we’re the only people here.

This 55-square-kilometre patch is Western Australia’s premier wine region (it’s responsible for 20 per cent of Australia’s premium wine sales each month, mainly cabernet and semillon/sauvignon blanc blends); a growing foodie destination (every November is the Margaret River Gourmet Escape, with past visiting chefs including Heston Blumenthal and Hong Kong’s very own May Chow); and home to postcardperfect landscapes (clear topaz seas and rolling green Tuscan hills).

It’s a pretty perfect package for a gentle winter trip. But consider this: the first tourism outfit, the coastal, still-in-operation Prevelly Caravan Park, only opened in the 1950s; while the first vines were planted at Vasse Felix in 1967 (after Australian viticultural researcher Dr John Gladstones wrote about the region’s suitability for wine production in his report The Climate and Soils of Southern WA in Relation to Vine Growing). Surfers soon followed, as did thirsty visitors in the 1980s and ’90s, with the now-iconic Gourmet Escape opening in 2012. Now, 5.5 million tourists on average arrive each year in Margaret River.

‘ The Margaret River region has, over the past few years, become one of Australia’s leading culinary destinations,’ says John O’Sullivan, managing director of Tourism Australia. ‘But it’s not all about the food. The region is full of natural attractions, from unspoiled beaches to ancient limestone caves and opportunities to view the more than 35,000 whales that pass by each year.’

I’ve decided to pair what the region does best – food and wine – with views and landscapes, from one end of the region to the other.

Three hours after driving out of Perth’s fringes, we’re pulling up at The Equinox by Busselton Jetty, overlooking 180 degrees of green-blue water at Geographe Bay. We drink restorative cappuccinos and nibble flaky-fresh croissants in a late breakfast underneath the shade of drooping fig trees, before walking the almost twokilometre-long Busselton Jetty, peering down at the 300 species of fish and other marine life in these crystalline waters. South to Margaret River town.

A lazy day’s eating itinerary would start with brunch at Swings Taphouse, a ‘locals’ local’ according to manager Kris, a Napa Valley import. The brewers and vineyard managers are ordering plates of chicken pancakes and vine tomatoes on toast, washed down with spicy Bloody Marys and mimosas. (In the evening: ‘chardy’ straight from the tap and guest wines from surrounding Margaret River wineries.)

A late lunch would be at Morries: small plates of beef tataki, chicken with Kewpie mayo and grilled sardines, washed down with cocktails named things like ‘Fizzy Navel’ and ‘ Trophy Wife’. Inch into dinner at cosy seafood grill Katch-Up (the pairing? Seafood chowder in front of a log fire).

Margaret River takes its name from

從珀驅斯 車前往位瑪麗於 格 特河釀酒區頂端的巴瑟爾頓，兩小時的車程後，路上的風景就出現變。化 灌木叢林的草地上長滿樹了 木，時近中午，空曠的道路上灑滿陽光。瑪格麗特河是西澳最受歡迎的佳釀與美食天堂，但我們抵達時卻是一片寂 ，人跡罕。至

這片面積55平方公里的土地，既是西澳首屈一指的釀酒區（每月產量佔澳洲葡萄酒量成產兩 ，要主以cabernet及semillon/ sauvignon blanc混；釀）也是個蓬方發展的美食勝地（瑪麗格 特河美食樂園每在 年11 月，舉行 邀請著名廚師前來一顯身手， 括Heston Blumenthal和香港的周思等薇 ） ；還擁有畫如 一般的優美景致（藍得寶像 石的清澈海水，襯托綿連 不斷的綠色山巒。）

這裡可說得上是個冬日逍遙遊的理想地點。，不過 這個地方發展到成為今天的旅遊勝地，卻只不過花了幾十年的時間。沿海岸而建設的Prevelly Caravan露營營車 地於1950年代才啟，用 而是且 當地首個專為旅遊而設的設施至， 今仍然開放供人使用。至於供釀酒用的葡萄樹，於1967年才在Vasse Felix葡萄酒莊種植下來。當時專門研究澳洲葡萄種植的專家John Gladstones博士，剛發關澳表了 於南 的氣候和土壤與種植葡萄樹的研究報〈告 The Climate and Soils of Southern WA in Relation to Vine Growing〉，報告認為這地區適合生產葡萄酒。隨後滑浪者亦接踵而至，然後是1980及90年代慕美酒之名而來的遊客，接著於2012年亦創立了如今聲名遠播的美食節。現在，每年平均有550萬名遊客前往瑪麗格 特河遊覽。

澳洲旅遊局的董事總經理John O'Sullivan說：「過去幾年，瑪麗格 特河區說可是澳洲首屈一指的美食之都。不過這裡除了美食之外，還有很多迷人的自然風光。這裡不但有保持原始面貌灘的海 和石灰洞岩 ，每年還可以見到逾35,000條鯨從魚 這裡經過。」

我打算從這個地區端的一 走到另一端，逐一細賞區內各處的美景與風土人情色特 ，當然還要好好品嚐美地道 食與佳釀。

駕車離開珀斯三個小時之後我， 們在巴瑟爾頓棧橋停旁 下來，前往The Equinox餐廳。從餐廳可以180度眺望海水呈藍綠色的地理灣，我們坐在樹枝低垂的日花果樹樹蔭下吃早餐，以新鮮酥脆的牛角，  配醒上 神的泡沫咖啡。早餐後我們在巴瑟爾橋頓棧 上漫步，這條木棧橋接近兩公里長，可以從橋上俯視下面清澈的海水，水裡經常有魚群聚集，品種達300種之多。

然後我們南下，前往瑪麗格 特河鎮去。根據來自加州納帕谷的經理Kris所說，真正地道的美食行程要從本地酒莊Swings

Taphouse的早午餐開始。釀酒師和葡萄園經理都點了雞肉煎餅和車厘茄，多士 佐以辛辣的腥血 瑪麗和mimosa雞尾酒。晚（ 上則供應源源不絕的chardonnay白酒，以及瑪麗格 特河釀酒區其他酒莊的出品。）隨後的午餐就要到Morries餐廳去，日式生牛肉、雞肉伴丘比沙律醬和烤沙甸魚等均以小碟奉上，佐以名稱怪趣的雞尾酒，例如Fizzy Navel（冒泡的肚臍）或Trophy Wife（花瓶妻子）等餐。晚 則前往氣氛怡人的海鮮燒餐烤 廳Katch-Up，坐在燒木柴的火爐前，享用鮮味的周打海鮮湯。

瑪麗格 特河鎮取名於蜿蜒穿過小鎮的河流。一個下午，我與們 Margaret River Discovery Company旅行社的創辦人

FORESTS SPROUT FROM GRASSY SCRUBLAND, MORNING SUNSHINE BOUNCES OFF THE EMPTY ROADS灌木叢林的草地上長滿了樹木，空曠的道路上灑滿陽光

the river that snakes through the region. We canoe down it one afternoon with Sean Blocksidge, founder of the Margaret River Discovery Company. Once a vineyard manager, now he’s more likely to be showing tourists the region’s most stunning natural spots. As the sun sinks beyond the deciduous trees that hang over the narrow river, he talks about Margaret River as ‘the adventure capital’ of Western Australia: ‘You’ve got fishing, hiking, surfing, mountain biking, caving, kiteboarding, climbing.’ So far, we’ve just been eating.

We paddle a bit further, buoyed by a gentle current. The conversation moves to wildlife, as birds of prey dip and swoop into the water from above us. Sometimes you’ll see a kangaroo drowning another kangaroo, Blocksidge says, in the fight to become the alpha. Then he points out knots of wood that rise out of the water. ‘Snake!’ My heart stops. ‘Only joking…’

Now I really need a beer – preferably from one of Margaret River’s newest breweries that have started to spring up around premium wine country. The

Cheeky Monkey Brewery and Cidery at Wilyabrup has a different kind of tasting menu: a beer flight of five ales on a wooden paddle. In nearby Metricup,

The Beer Farm is one-third zeitgeisty brewery, one-third old dairy farm and one-third summer festival, with a carnivallike atmosphere that infects everything from its cartoonish art to the breezy hammocks by the river.

It’s been 700 words and I’ve only had one glass of chardonnay. Need to change that.

There are more than 200 vineyards up and down the region with the best known – Vasse Felix (the oldest), Cape Leeuwin (the southernmost), Barnyard 1978

(in my opinion, the most picturesque) – snatching most of Margaret River’s publicity. The boutique Rivendell Estate in Yallingup, meaning ‘place of love’ in the native language, is a family owned winery with a chic terrace restaurant overlooking the manicured gardens and lawns, growing mainly cabernet grapes. Here, it’s a periwinkle lavender bush paired with a tasting menu of lobster and sticky pork; oak and cherry trees with a glass of Howling Wolves cabernet sauvignon.

Nearby Rustico at Hay Shed Hill, with its glass conservatory overlooking the most typical Margaret River scene of swollen vines rolling down a hill, matches a degustation menu that includes Hervey Bay scallops, wild mushrooms with sherry cream and sirloin steak with chimichurri, all paired with premium Hay Shed Hill wines.

Further south, the landscape gets wilder still: ancient limestone caves, karri and jarrah forests, smashy coastlines.

At the White Elephant Cafe on Prevelly Beach – a gnarly surfer haven that curls out epic waves – are equally epic brunches of avocado and eggs on toast, freshly squeezed juices and coffee strong enough to wake even the limpest of surfer bodies.

In Boranup, en route to Cape Leeuwin, the most southwesterly point in Australia, where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide, we find Margaret River’s one landscape with absolutely no food or wine involved: Cave Road’s Kodak Corner, with a majestic view of century-old karri, marri and jarrah trees. ( The nearby Boranup Gallery, a gallery and shop flogging karri Sean Blocksidge一起在這河上划獨舟木 。他以前在萄曾 葡 園當經理，現在則帶領遊客前往當地欣賞令人歎為觀止的美。景 狹窄的河道兩旁長滿落葉林，夕陽漸逐 沉到樹後林面， Sean告訴我們，瑪格麗特河是西澳的「歷險活動之都」，：他說你「 可以在這裡釣魚、遠足、滑浪、騎越野單車、探察洞穴、玩風箏滑板和爬山。」可是，到目前為止我們只是一路吃吃喝喝。

我們順著緩緩流動的水流，向前再划遠。一點 這時有隻幾 猛禽從我們上空俯衝 入水獵食，於是我們的話題亦轉到野生動物。Blocksidge說有， 時會見到袋鼠為了爭做首領，將其他袋鼠按入水中淹。死 接著他指著從水裡浮出來的木塊大喊「蛇！嚇」我得心臟幾乎停止跳動，然後他說：「只我 是在開玩笑……」

現在我真的需要一杯啤酒，啤酒廠近日在這個優質的葡萄酒產區如雨後春筍，因此最好能一嚐新啤酒廠的出品位。 於維爾亞博魯普的Cheeky Monkey Brewery and Cidery啤酒廠提供另類的試飲：方式在一支木槳上放上五款麥啤供人同時品嚐。相距不的遠梅垂卡普則有The Beer Farm，這是一個集新興啤酒廠、舊牛奶場和夏季節慶於一身的地方，洋溢著嘉年華的歡樂氣息，卡通化的藝術品遍佈各處，河畔掛著吊床，可以躺在上面享受習習涼。風

已經寫了70 0字，我卻只喝了一杯chardonnay白酒我。 不能再這樣下去了。

瑪麗格 特河釀酒區有200多座葡萄園，酒莊 其中不乏著名酒莊，例如最古老的Vasse Felix酒莊、位於最南端的Cape Leeuwin酒莊以及個人認為風景最秀麗的Barnyard 1978酒莊等，可說在區內出盡風頭。風景如畫的精品酒莊Rivendell Estate位雅於 林閣，這個地方的名稱在原住民的語言愛是方 之地日的意。思酒莊由家族經營，附設一間別緻的露台餐廳，可俯瞰修剪整齊的花園和草坪，園葡萄 內以種植cabernet葡萄為在主。 這裡欣賞紫色的長春花叢時，最宜配以龍蝦和蜜汁豬肉；身而置 橡樹和林櫻樹中，則好最 來一杯Howling Wolves cabernet sauvignon紅。酒

鄰近的Rustico at Hay Shed Hill餐廳居高臨下，設有玻璃溫室，可俯瞰瑪麗格 特河最常見的景色是：就 一大片種滿葡萄樹的山坡。這裡供應嚐，的品菜單括來自維赫海灣的帶子、野生蘑菇伴雪利忌廉，以及西冷配牛扒 chimichurri阿根廷青醬，全部佐以Hay Shed Hill酒莊出產的頂級葡萄酒。

愈往南行，沿途景色愈顯荒涼，路上不時會見到古老的石灰洞岩 穴、紅桉樹及紅柳樹桉 森林，還有陡斜的海岸線。

White Elephant Cafe餐廳位菲於普力海灘，這個海灘擁有滑浪者夢寐以求的洶湧巨浪。餐廳供應的早午餐亦非常豐富， 括牛油果炒蛋多士、鮮榨果汁和香濃又醒神的咖啡，足以令筋疲力竭的滑浪手精神為之一振。

前往澳洲最西南端、位於印度洋和南冰洋界露交 的 紋角，途中 我在們 波蘭納普發現了瑪格麗特河地區唯一一個跟美酒餚佳完全無關的地方它： 位於Cave Road路，名為Kodak Corner，那裡有高聳的百年紅桉、馬瑞紅桉及紅柳桉老樹。附近有Boranup Gallery工藝禮品店，這家禮品店兼藝廊

THE LANDSCAPE GETS WILDER STILL: ANCIENT LIMESTONE CAVES, KARRI AND JARRAH FORESTS, SMASHY COASTLINES景色愈來愈荒涼，路上不時見到古老的石灰岩洞穴、紅桉樹及紅柳桉樹林，以及陡斜的海岸線

wood furniture, is where you can buy what you’ve just driven through.)

At Cape Leeuwin, named after a Dutch ship that charted its coastline in 1622, we reach the end of Margaret River country. Today it’s no less dramatic: the wind whips around the lighthouse and the tour buses parked in the gorse-covered hills, swirling over the graphite ocean. A last lunch of simple sandwiches and cups of sugary Earl Grey from the Lighthouse Cafe, under an angry sky, is a long way from Margaret River’s sun-shilled vineyards and cellar doors – and from Perth’s conveyor belt of faddy restaurants. 格調高雅，店內出售以紅桉樹木材製成的家具，用的木材就是來自我們剛才駕車經過的樹林。

露紋角的名稱自艘來 一 於1622年前來繪製當地海岸線的荷蘭隻船 ，這裡是瑪格麗特河區的盡頭，也是我們此行的終點。今天跟以往幾天同樣精燈采：塔四周的風吹得呼呼作響，經過滿佈金雀花的山丘上的幾輛旅遊巴士，並在墨黑色的海面上捲起陣陣漩渦。中午時分，我們在燈塔咖啡室內以簡單的三文治和加了糖伯的 爵茶匆匆裹腹。面外 的天空風起雲湧，瑪格特麗河些光那 陽 燦爛的葡萄園和酒窖，還有珀斯市區的時髦，餐廳 恍如十萬八千里。外