ALL THE TEA IN CHINA

YANNIE CHAN SIN YAN REVEALS THE

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CHA

DESPITE THE FACT that tea – the most popular beverage in the world – originated in China, the complex world of contemporary Chinese tea is often lost in translation. Determined to set the record straight, writer and tea lover Yannie Chan Sin Yan takes on the challenge of demystifying tea leaves in her new book Tea is for Everyone: Making Chinese Tea Accessible. Here,

she reveals five of the most intriguing Chinese teas and

where to find them. 1

XIHU LONGJING, HANGZHOU

What it is: Longjing, literally ‘dragon well’, has smooth, flat leaves and a bright taste

with grassy or nutty notes. According to the theory of traditional Chinese medicine, Longjing’s cooling properties make it a great beverage for the summer months.

Where to find it: Authentic Longjing is grown in Zhejiang province, south of Shanghai. The West Lake (Xihu) area of Hangzhou is home to Longjing village, which gives its name to the tea. Both Longjing and the neighbouring Meijiawu village are set into rolling hills lined with rows of tea bushes. Tea shops and humble houses alike will serve tea by the glass, alongside home-style dishes like bamboo shoots and steamed chicken. The best time to visit is during tea season, which runs from

March till June. Be warned, longjing is expensive: premium-grade leaves like Xihu Longing cost about HK$3,000 per 500 grams, depending on the year. 2

ORIENTAL BEAUTY, HSINCHU

What it is: There’s a host of wulong teas, but Oriental Beauty stands out. Wulongs are known for their strong floral fragrance, thanks to the

heavy oxidation of the leaves. But this one also boasts an unforgettable honey note, because tea makers only use leaves that have been visited by Jacobiasca Formosana,

a tiny leafhopper insect whose bite causes the plant to release more aromatic compounds.

Where to find it: Oriental Beauty is produced mainly in Hsinchu County, south of Taipei. Increasingly, tea makers are setting up their own retail spaces to sell this honeyed tea. Lishui Street in Taipei’s Da’an District is a well-known ‘tea street’. 3

GAOSHANCHA, CHIAYI

What it is: Gaoshancha, sometimes called ‘High Mountain Tea’, is another popular Taiwanese wulong, and usually comes in a tightlycurled ball. Many describe the tea’s nuanced flavour profile as ‘Mountain Essence’,

which implies an elegant

floral fragrance with a pleasant bittersweetness at the back of the throat.

Where to find it: Experience the ‘Mountain Essence’ for yourself by heading to Alishan in Chiayi County. southwest Taiwan. Limited sunshine in the high mountains leads to a slower growth rate, resulting in strong aromas and tender leaves.

4

DIANHONG, YUNNAN

What it is: By definition, pu’er tea has to be grown in Yunnan in southern China, making it a pilgrimage site for fans of the dark, rich, fermented brew. But there’s something else to look out for in Yunnan: Dianhong, a red tea – confusingly known as black tea in the West. It has a distinctive sweetness, with notes of black sugar and lychee. Where to go: Popular tasting regions include Xishuangbanna and Pu’er. Look for intact tea leaves, which usually indicates better processing – and always taste before you buy.

5

WUYI YANCHA, WUYISHAN

What it is: Wuyi Yancha, also called Rock Tea, is a partially oxidised tea. It belongs in the wulong family but its taste profile is one-of-a-kind: instead of the strong floral or fruity fragrance many associate with wulong, wuyi yancha is coveted for its heavy roast and dark, bold flavour.

Where to go: When in Wuyishan, north of Fuzhou, try all four wuyi yanchas:

dahongpao ‘big red robe’,

tieluohan ‘iron monk’,

shuijingui ‘water golden turtle’, and baijiguan ‘white cockscomb’. Start with the bigger brand names such as Junde Tea Company (駿德茶

業) and Xiang Jiang Cha Ye (香江茶業), before checking out smaller tea plantations.

TEA SHOPS AND HUMBLE HOUSES SERVE TEA BY THE GLASS, ALONGSIDE HOME-STYLE DISHES

HOMELAND TEA GARDEN (1) Founded by tea master May Chan, Homeland sells a handpicked range of Chinese teas, while Chan also hosts tasting and brewing workshops.

Shop 9, 7 Mallory Street, Wan Chai homelandteagarden.com

PLANTATION BY TEAKHA Plantation specialises in tea sourced from small growers around the world. Sample teas by the pot, brewed by a seasoned tea master, and stock up on leaves as well as fancy teaware.

18 Po Tuck St, Sai Ying Pun plantation.hk

YÚ TEAHOUSE (2)

Yú Teahouse sells white teas and pu’er tea cakes, and runs tea meditation and tea appreciation classes too.

L230, 2/F, The Eslite Spectrum, Star House, Tsim Sha Tsui yuteahouse.com

LOCKCHA TEA HOUSE

At this old-school teahouse and restaurant, pair your tea with vegetarian dim sum.

The K.S. Lo Gallery, Hong Kong Park, Admiralty lockcha.com

MAN CHA TEAS

A relatively young brand, Man Cha Teas sources directly from tea growers. It’s recently opened a tea bar at The Mills in Tsuen Wan, with tea tastings available by appointment.

The Mills Fabrica, 45 Pak Tin Par Street, Tsuen Wan manchateas.com