The rise of wanghong restaurants
Christopher St Cavish, food writer and author of the Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index
Q: Why do you think there are so many people going crazy about
wanghong restaurants? Is it about food or something else? And why Shanghai and 2017? A: It’s definitely not about the food. It’s about novelty, fun and wanting to try something new and exciting. It’s practically the definition of Shanghai — it’s really a reflection of the city’s unending thirst for new things. People’s attention spans are getting shorter. From a more nuanced perspective, I’m sure it’s related to the fact that the food and beverage industry is getting more competitive and owners’ margins are shrinking, so shops do everything they can to stand out.
Austin Hu, chef
Q: As a chef and restaurateur, which do you prefer, a Michelin star or becoming
wanghong? A: Between the two of them? Michelin. But at the end of the day I just want a shop that’s putting out food that I can be proud of. Q: How about as a consumer, what do you usually refer to when you dine out? A: For me, wanghong is simply an adjective. I pick my restaurants based on quality and taste. If it’s good and wanghong, then sure, I’ll go and wait in line like a good boy. I generally go with recommendations from trusted friends. Online reviews are questionable. I will go insane distances for something good. I had no problem when Ada Scallion Pancake was just a tiny stall off Maoming Road. I think my longest wait there was about two hours.
Gao Yan, food writer
Q: Which do you think is more influential among local consumers, a Michelin star or the wanghong label? A: I would like to compare Michelin stars to (astronomic) stars. The Michelin-starred restaurants around the world make up the beautiful Milky Way of the culinary universe.
Wanghong restaurants, on the other hand, are more like meteors — shiny, but quick to fall. Q: What’s the longest time you are willing to wait for food? A: Five to 10 minutes, which is the time that a basket of Shanghai soup dumplings needs to be steamed.