China Daily

Interview: One of Kate Middleton’s favorite designers, London-based Brazilian style guru Daniella Helayel, has launched a new clothing brand after a three-year hiatus.

One of Kate Middleton’s favorite designers, London-based Brazilian style guru Daniella Helayel has launched a new clothing brand after a three-year hiatus

- By KITTY GO

Daniella Helayel (left) made her fashion mark with her brand Issa — you may remember Kate Middleton famously wearing the founder and designer’s teal-blue silk knit dress to announce her royal engagement — before selling her stake. In 2016, the Londonbase­d Brazilian designer launched another brand, Dhela. With its flagship boutique in Tokyo’s Roponggi Hills, a selection of Dhela items are also carried at Harvey Nichols, Mitsukoshi in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza district, Boutique 1 in the Middle East and online at Stylebop

After being out of the fashion business for three-and-a-half years, what brought you back with Dhela?

My Japanese distributo­rs for Issa came to me and encouraged me to get into business again, because they couldn’t find the long and short dresses in easy shapes, which I used to do for Issa. There had to be a gap in the market — or else they wouldn’t have come to me. This is also why my first distributo­rs and stand-alone stores are in Tokyo.

Tell us about your creative process.

It’s quite complicate­d in that I do everything myself. Prints are one of my strengths, so I design and develop them myself in China. Contrary to what many people think, there are Chinese factories that do small quantities better and more efficientl­y than Italy. If I just bought stock prints, my brand would have no exclusivit­y.

Aside from the exclusivit­y of prints, what makes your brand stand out?

Most of my collection­s are printed in primary or bright colors, cut into flattering shapes. Nature has always been my main source of inspiratio­n. In fact, I’ve decided to give 1 percent of my profits to save the Amazon forests because I’m Brazilian — and the Amazon is a wonder and link to the world. Also, I love jacquard knits and I do them very well. Right now, only 30 percent to 40 percent of every collection is knits, but I will move into 50-50 territory soon.

What are your short- and long-term strategies for developing the brand?

I never liked pre-fall, but I have to sell it, so I’ve included it as part of three small, themed deliveries for autumn/winter. Spring/summer will be very small. I’ll do resort because I’m good at it — in fact, I can live on resort and holiday. It’s too much to do four collection­s a year, but I also want to go back to having a £25-million ($34-million) company, which is what Issa was.

My plan is to have a lifestyle brand that doesn’t just involve clothes, but also flip-flops, socks, umbrellas, Wellies, housewares, swimsuits and so on. There will also be printed Hawaiian-style shirts, ties and swim trunks for men, which will be sold separately. I could also do a small girls’ collection, which I did successful­ly in London and the Middle East, for gifting.

Even if prints are a strong presence in fashion, many women still shy away from them. How should one wear them without looking overwhelme­d?

When you do printed clothes, you can’t go crazy with the style because the wearer will end up looking like an art installati­on. Printed clothes with so many seams look weird and futuristic. The cut has to be in a simple, precise line that’s spot on with fit and maximizes the beauty of the print. The sleek style of the ’70s is where I look for inspiratio­n.

 ?? IMAGES: PHILIPPE KLIOT; STYLING: YASMINE ESTEREA; HAIR: SNOWDEN HILL; MAKE-UP: EMMA MILES ?? Daniella Helayel’s plan is to have a lifestyle brand that doesn’t just involve clothes, but also flip-flops, socks, umbrellas, Wellies, housewares and swimsuits.
IMAGES: PHILIPPE KLIOT; STYLING: YASMINE ESTEREA; HAIR: SNOWDEN HILL; MAKE-UP: EMMA MILES Daniella Helayel’s plan is to have a lifestyle brand that doesn’t just involve clothes, but also flip-flops, socks, umbrellas, Wellies, housewares and swimsuits.
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 ?? IMAGES: PHILIPPE KLIOT; STYLING: YASMINE ESTEREA; HAIR: SNOWDEN HILL; MAKE-UP: EMMA MILES ?? Most of Daniella Helayel’s collection­s are printed in primary or bright colors, cut into flattering shapes.
IMAGES: PHILIPPE KLIOT; STYLING: YASMINE ESTEREA; HAIR: SNOWDEN HILL; MAKE-UP: EMMA MILES Most of Daniella Helayel’s collection­s are printed in primary or bright colors, cut into flattering shapes.
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