High hopes as climbers converge in Nepal for start of Qomolangma expedition season
KATHMANDU — With the onset of spring season, over 346 mountaineers are attempting to climb the world’s highest peak, Qomolangma aka Mount Everest, in May.
A total of 38 Nepali and foreign teams have been issued with climbing permits for expeditions this year, according to Nepal’s tourism department.
“This year, 346 mountaineers from 38 teams have received permits for Qomolangma,” Dinesh Bhattarai, director general of the department told Xinhua.
“Among them, four are Nepali teams with 20 members while the remaining are foreigners from different countries.”
The number is expected to increase as many climbers have been approaching the department for permits in a timely boost for the quakeshattered country’s tourism industry.
The majority of climbers have already reached Qomolangma base camp, a sevenday trek from the nearest airport, where they will spend at least six weeks to for acclimatize and reduce the risk of altitude sickness.
An expedition to the world’s highest peak usually takes 75 to 90 days, while the climbing window is short, depending on the weather, and generally falls after midMay.
This is also the prime time for trekkers to gather at base camp and surrounding locations such as Kalapatthar and Gokyo Lake.
Qomolangma base camp also acts as the base camp for neighboring peaks like Lhotse and Nuptse.
Therefore, Qomolangma, known as Sagarmatha in Nepal, is likely to be congested this season as over 2,000 trekkers, porters, guides and mountain enthusiasts are gathering in the base camp.
The Nepalese government, however, is attempting to play down these fears.
“Everest is a lifetime experience for many so they gather and attempt (to climb it) in this spring season,” an official at Nepal’s tourism department told Xinhua.
“The expedition period can go up to 90 days while not all climbers reach the top of the world on the same day, so it does not create the problem of traffic jams as often portrayed.”
In 2017, the department issued climbing permits to 43 groups, among which 445 climbers succeeded in reaching the 8,848-meter peak.
Qomolangma is not only a national emblem of this poorly developed country but also a major source of revenue. Regulations dictate that each foreigner must pay $11,000 as a “royalty” to scale the mountain while a Nepali climber pays jus $710. Every climber has to pay separately for a liaison officer appointed by the government.
With the beginning of Qomolangma season every year, issues concerning competitions, records and safety also arise. The Nepalese government says its sole priority is the safety of the climbers and it discourages recordsetting attempts.
“Safety is the first concern for which we try to make the expedition agency and climbers responsible,” said Bhattarai.
“We have always stressed the availability of enough oxygen bottles and life-saving drugs before the expedition team leaves for Lukla, the gateway to Everest,” said Bhattarai.
Expeditions are offered by both foreign and local agencies, usually led by climbers who have already stood atop the mountain several times.
This year, a majority of climbers are from the United States, followed by India and China.
Over 54 Chinese climbers including a double amputee are trying their luck this spring.
Nepal’s enthusiasm for the business of Qomolangma expeditions has revived since 2016 after climbing was halted the two previous years due to a massive avalanche killing 16 Sherpa guides and a 7.8 magnitude earthquake killing 19 people.
The spring season is not all about Qomolangma. Altogether 698 climbers will attempt to climb 22 mountains in the Himalayan country this year, including Ambadablam, Lhoste, Kanchanjunga, Nuptse, Manaslu, Dhawalagiri and Annapurna.