Tracks of ancient road in Aleppo

ALEPPO, Syria — Despite the widespread destruction of its ancient treasures in the past years of war and violence, the historic spirit and glorious past of the Syrian city of Aleppo is showing signs of a return to life.

Though much of the city is largely in ruins, it feels like every fallen stone and broken relic tells a story, and holds the promise of a new future.

In the Bab al-Nasr Souk, which dates back to ancient Greece, three or four shops have reopened since the city was liberated from the rebels in late 2016.

The souk is named after the adjacent Bab al-Nasr, or the Victory Gate, the northern portal to the city. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history because of war and earthquakes.

One of these shops is an old bakery, possibly the only one of its kind in the city these days.

The bakery produces various types of cookies and bagels, the most famous creation being the sesame seed breadsticks, known as Kaak al-Sakhaneh in Arabic, which used to be a favorite food for travelers and merchants on the ancient Silk Road and are still enjoyed today.

Khaled Mari, the owner of the bakery, said the breadsticks were so popular among travelers because they could last for months.

“People used to come and take the Kaak al-Sakhaneh in wrapped bags and would travel long distances, and as long as it’s dry and not penetrated by humidity, it could last for two months and the taste remains the same as if just coming out of the oven,” said Mari.

Recounting what his father and grandfather had told him, Mari said the Silk Road merchants used to buy the breadsticks while crossing Aleppo’s old city toward Constantinople (now Istanbul), Anatolia, the Black Sea and all the way to Europe.

Alaa al-Sayyed, a lawyer and history researcher, said that the ancient city of Aleppo was located on the crossroads of several trade routes.

“Aleppo was in the heart of the Silk Road, the one coming from China in the Far East toward what is currently known as Western Europe and the Spice Route coming from the far south in India to Yemen, Hijaz, the Levant and then north of Aleppo heading either toward the Black Sea to Armenia or the Caspian Sea, or to Constantinople to enter Western Europe,” he said.

Sayyed said Bab al-Nasr was important as the commercial caravans used to pass through it to reach the souk, where shops were lined on both sides of the streets.

Nowadays, most of the souks in Aleppo, including Bab al-Nasr, have been largely destroyed by the war.

But the shops that were not heavily damaged have started operating again, including the bakery that makes the Kaak al-Sakhaneh.

China launched the Belt and Road Initiative in 2013, with the aim of building a trade and infrastructure network connecting Asia with the Middle East, Africa and Europe along the ancient trade routes including the Silk Road.

Hopefully, Aleppo can revive its past glory and prosperity through participation in the initiative.