CITY BY THE LAKE
Hangzhou offers history, heritage and an iconic hot beverage next to a wonderful water body.
The great Tang (618907) and Song (9601279) poets Bai Juyi and Su Dongpo respectively governed Hangzhou, capital of today’s Zhejiang province, and are still beloved by residents of the city and people around the world.
It’s said Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) emperor Qianlong also penned prose venerating Zhejiang’s scenery and personally picked tea leaves in a Hangzhou temple during his southern inspections.
Many of the wonders these literati venerated remain in the West Lake area, which harbors ancient temples, gardens and tea terraces.
The banks host many centuries-old structures, such as the Lingyin Temple, the Broken Bridge and the Leifeng Pagoda, which serves as the setting for the mythological story of Madam White Snake. The pagoda collapsed in 1924 and was rebuilt in 2002.
Tea cultivation has flourished in the area since the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
Villagers still handpick Xihu Longjing (West Lake Dragon Well) tea, which is regarded as one of the country’s best varieties.
It’s also known as Ming Qian Longjing, since the best harvest is before Qingming, or Tomb Sweeping Day, in spring.
The best yields can sell for as much as 8,000 yuan ($1,250) for half a kilogram.
The brews are often paired with local snacks or cuisine.
Yet tea is but one of many offerings that make visiting Hangzhou worthwhile.
Tea plantations
Longjing village is widely believed to be the birthplace of Longjing tea. Crowds descend upon its verdant terraces today. Visitors can also see the 18 tea trees upon which emperor Qianlong is said to have conferred imperial status.
Scenic Meijia Wu village caters to tourists who want more hands-on experiences. They can participate in the process from picking to roasting in a single morning.
Temples
Hangzhou’s 1,600-year-old Yongfu Temple looks more like a garden than a Zen monastery.
Monks and locals tend tea fields in its manicured grounds. Visitors to Fuquan Teahouse can hire hosts to give talks about tea and spiritual cultivation while enjoying simple vegetarian food.
The Leifeng Pagoda collapsed in 1924 after years of neglect and wanton theft of its bricks for good luck and protection against snakes. It was rebuilt in 2002. Visitors can view wood carvings depicting Madam White Snake and panoramic views of the city.
Restaurants and teahouses
The Hu Yin Teahouse is annexed to the conservation themed Xinxin Hotel on West Lake’s banks. Hu Yin is a cluster of suites with antique furnishings and tea-related items.
Resident consultants suggest samplings from dozens of premium brews from a variety of sources. The Xihu Longjing variety is included in the entry price.
Another option is the Jin Sha (Four Seasons Hangzhou), which is hailed as one of China’s best restaurants. It serves the local Hangbang cuisine with modern twists. Its signature dishes include classic Hangbang chicken, the chef’s interpretation of Dongpo pork, named after ancient governor and poet, Su Dongpo.
Meanwhile, the head chef of Zhejiang Xizi Hotel’s Mu Dan restaurant, Zhu Qijin, was responsible for the banquet of the 2016 G20 Summit in Hangzhou. He has reinvented many traditional Zhejiang classics for contemporary tastes, including braised “kidney flowers”, fish “lion heads” and chicken stew with abalone.
So visitors will discover Hangzhou is a feast for the senses — in every sense.