I NEED TO EAT

A rustic French stew that’s found an audience with the stars

Discovery - - CONTENTS 目錄 -

The French Riviera’s best bouillabaisse

尋味之旅

法國蔚藍海岸最美味的馬賽魚湯

贏得眾多明星歡心的法國鄉村風味魚湯

OBSESSIVE : MARC FORGIONE MILES TRAVELLED : 3,990 (NEW YORK – GOLFE-JUAN)

IN NICE, MY wife and

I rented a car and drove through Cannes, Antibes, along winding coastal roads and beside perfect white sand beaches.

I’d previously spent a year and a bit working in France, in Eugénie-les-Bains. It’s a tiny village in the southwest, with nothing around it but fields. The French Riviera is the opposite: it has wideopen ocean, Mediterranean beaches – and bouillabaisse.

As a chef, I let food dictate a lot of where I like to travel. In the town of Golfe-Juan, there’s a small restaurant called Tetou (open March- October). It’s a simple, family-run place, in a rustic building by the beach, just east of Cannes. But Tetou’s bouillabaisse is legendary, and quite different from what you get in Marseille, the dish’s spiritual home. I knew we had to go.

It’s served a bit differently. First, the broth, clear but packed with flavour from the various fish cooked in it, is served in a massive tureen. Then the fish – John Dory, red mullet, rascasse, turbot (and langoustines if you pay more), all cooked whole in the broth – is brought out on a huge platter, and filleted at the table for you. This is how they’ve served it since they opened in the 1920s.

Tetou and its bouillabaisse draw a notable crowd, including plenty of actors during the film festival in nearby Cannes. We picked the restaurant without knowing it was so expensive – and that it was cash only. So we had to make a decision: order a bottle of wine or the langoustines? To my wife’s dismay, I chose the langoustines. Always choose the langoustines.

Marc Forgione is a chef and owner of New York restaurants Marc Forgione, American Cut and Lobster Press

尋味者:

MARC FORGIONE旅程哩數: 3,990 (紐約─ GOLFE-JUAN鎮)

我與太太租了輛車,從尼斯出發,沿著海岸曲折的道路前往康城和昂蒂布,路旁所見,盡是美麗迷人的白色沙灘。

我之前曾在法國西南部的小鎮Eugénie- les- Bains工作過一年多,這個地方附近除了田野之外一無所有。但是蔚藍海岸就完全不同了,除了有一望無際的海洋和散發地中海風情的海灘之外,還有美味的馬賽魚湯。

身為廚師,我往往由食物來決定自己旅行的目的地。在GolfeJuan這個小鎮裡,有一間樸實的家庭式經營小餐館,名叫Tetou(3月至10月營業),位置就在康城東面的海灘旁。不過Tetou的馬賽魚湯卻是遠近馳名,風味與這道湯的發源地馬賽完全不同,我決定前往一嚐滋味。

魚湯上桌的方式亦與別處有點不同:首先送來的是清澈但魚香濃郁的清湯,盛在一隻巨型蓋碗內。然後就是魚,有海魴、紅衫魚、鮋魚、多寶魚(如果肯多付點錢還可以有海螯蝦)等,全都是整條放進鍋內熬成湯後,再放在大淺盤上送到桌 上,侍應在你面前將魚肉剔出。這家餐館自1920年代開業以來,一直以這種方式為客人奉上馬賽魚湯。

Tetou這道馬賽魚湯招徠不少名人顧客,尤其是附近的康城舉行影展時,更是星光熠熠。我們選擇這家餐館時,沒料到它的價錢如此昂貴,而且只收現金。於是我們在點菜時要作一個決定:要一瓶葡萄酒還是要海螯蝦呢?我選了海螯蝦,令我太太大失所望。記住,一定要選海螯蝦。

MarcForgione是名廚,也是紐約三家餐廳Marc Forgione、AmericanCut及LobsterPress的東主

DISCOVER MORE Find more of the world’s best dishes at cathaypacific.com/discovery 發現更多尋找更多世界各地的一流美食,請瀏覽 cathaypacific.com/ discovery

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