煮出尊嚴滋味的廚房
香港曾經盛極一時的街頭綠色小販檔,現已所餘無幾。不過最近城中卻有綠色小販排檔新開業,為食客炮製洋溢著尊嚴滋味的海南雞飯等新加坡街頭美食。撰文:高玉娟
李奇面前的客人沒有說話,而是慢慢地比劃著雙手,以簡單
的手語點餐。接著李奇微笑點頭,然後精心炮製出兩杯香甜的南洋咖啡。客人舉起大拇指,屈曲大拇指兩下,以手語向
李奇道謝。李奇再以手語回禮,客人滿足地回到座位,開始
享用香氣四溢的咖啡。
李奇在位於香港旺角的餐廳「廚尊」工作,在飲品檔負責沖製飲品。來自新加坡的社企品牌「廚尊」於今年初在香港開設同名餐廳,驟眼看來,它與一般新加坡熟食中心無異,不過其營運理念卻與眾不同:在這裡工作的絕大部分是
傷健人士。李奇有聽力障礙,較難在一般咖啡店工作,但在
「廚尊」,他得以一展所長,因為這裡有不少舉措,令他的工作更為得心應手。他表示:「這裡有照片及短片教導客人如何用手語點選飲品,讓我更容易明白客人所需。而且在教導顧客學習手語時,更讓我們結交成為朋友。」
「廚尊」位於旺角上海街618號經過活化的戰前唐樓群二樓,共設有七個墨綠色小販檔,跟香港在1950至60年代
隨處可見的街頭攤檔一樣,天花板則垂吊著昔日香港常見的紅色燈罩,再加上由本地展能畫家唐詠然繪畫的當舖、士多
等壁畫,為餐廳增添不少懷舊色彩。這裡還有可闢作活動用
途的騎樓,是獲保留的原來建築部分,前臨旺角熙來攘往的街頭風景。
七個攤檔各自出售一款新加坡小販美食,包括海南雞
飯、叻沙、rojak南洋沙律和斑蘭蛋糕等。「廚尊」創辦人兼
行政總監許承俊更特別從新加坡請來廚師,親授香港職員
各種烹調技巧,並進口新加坡蝦醬、南洋咖啡豆和斑蘭葉等
食材,務求在香港也能炮製出地道的獅城美食。
不過,炮製新加坡菜式以饗香港食客,只是「廚尊」的
營運宗旨之一,選擇在這棟活化唐樓開業,亦是因為顧及
WHAT I SEE ARE THEIR ABILITIES, NOT DISABILITIES我看的是他們的能力,而不是身體上的障礙
of Dignity Kitchen is to empower those with disabilities and disadvantages by equipping them with the tools to
become financially independent. The social enterprise
was brought to Hong Kong in January by entrepreneur
and executive director Koh Seng Choon, who first launched the concept in Singapore a decade ago.
‘What I see are their abilities, not disabilities,’ says Koh, who has welcomed a diverse workforce of about 40 people with all kinds of disabilities, ages and
backgrounds. And it’s not just about employment:
training and development are key parts of the initiative, with a focus on training programmes in a range of disciplines such as cooking, service, restaurant
management, cleaning and operating the tills. Koh
hopes Dignity Kitchen will become a training ground
for a skilful new workforce who can go on to find employment in Hong Kong’s wider industry. ‘We have
the most enthusiastic trainees here because they want
to make the most of the opportunity,’ he adds.
For those like Alison Fung, who is currently in a wheelchair, the unique opportunity has been a lifeline. ‘I prefer an office-based role as I am physically challenged, but I haven’t been able to find a suitable job. I am delighted to be a trainee at Dignity Kitchen:
here, I receive extensive training in the catering industry
and am thrilled that I can work in the office as a clerk or double up as a cashier during busy hours,’ she says.
Though it only opened a few months ago, Dignity Kitchen is already experimenting with wider initiatives.
In early February, for example, it launched a pilot scheme with the neighbouring Cordis Hotel to introduce food
delivery services staffed by those in wheelchairs – and there are more plans in the pipeline.
Ultimately at Dignity Kitchen, good food really
does nourish the soul – for customers, staff and the community alike. As Alice reveals: ‘I have learned a lot and feel more confident in communicating with others, like suppliers and wholesalers. I am also very happy to
work with my colleagues who share similar backgrounds
– it makes me feel like I am not so different. This is
the driving force that supports me to go on during a
difficult time.’
Dignity Kitchen, 2/F, 618 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok傷健人士的需要,一來唐樓有足夠空間建立無障礙環境,而
地點也方便學員和同事往來。許承俊表示:「我們這裡不是
普通餐廳,其實是個培訓中心。」在新加坡營辦社企十多年,
他深明能讓弱勢人士走得更遠,始終是幫助他們憑藉個人技能自力更生。「廚尊」餐廳由廚房、待客、收款和清潔等絕大部分工作崗位均由傷健同事擔當,而培訓課程亦涵蓋餐廳
營運的各方面。它的最終目標是培訓出有餐飲專業技能的學
員,在這裡實習後能找到相關工作,現時「廚尊」約有40位
職員。更破格的是,「廚尊」的學員及職員包括不同傷健類
別和年齡的人士,單是溝通就很不簡單,但許承俊看到的反倒是優勢而不是挑戰:「我看的是他們的能力,而不是身體上
的障礙。」每類傷健人士都有其可以勝任的工作,互補不足
便湊合成完整的團隊。許承俊補充:「香港學員甚至比新加坡同學更積極,我感到他們都很渴望抓緊難得的機會。」
曉蒽是「廚尊」另一位職員,她因為健康問題需以輪椅代步,她在這裡工作愉快,並視之為人生一個寶貴的機會。她說:「我一直想從事辦公室工作,但未能如願,因此很高興能在這裡受訓,學習餐飲業不同範疇的工作。」雖然培訓
還未結束,但是她現時在辦公室當文員,負責與供應商和批發商等單位聯絡,在餐廳的繁忙時間,她亦在收銀台幫手。
儘管「廚尊」才開業數月,但已積極開展不同的試驗計劃,例如在今年2月初,它與一街之隔的康得思酒店合作,首創由輪椅人士擔任外送服務員,把美食直送酒店,期望能把這理念推廣至其他餐飲公司,為傷健人士製造就業機會。
美食能令人感到心滿意足,而在「廚尊」,滿足的不僅
是客人,還有職員,甚至是社區。正如曉蒽所言:「在這裡不但學到新的知識,也讓我更有信心與人溝通。但讓我最開心的,還是可以跟其他背景相似的朋友做同事。在這裡,我不會覺得只有自己與別不同而感到自卑,就算偶然因工作
繁忙而感到有壓力,這股推動力也能使我堅持下去。」
旺角上海街618號2樓「廚尊」餐廳